Well, maybe you should put the project on hold until your budget comes up to speed.
>If the rings have to work in a tapered bore, they will wear out the ringlands, lose seal, and the engine goes away.
>If If the bores are not round, the rings cannot seal properly, and then you don't have an engine. Well you do but she is an oil-burner and down on power.
>The very top inch to inch and a half has got to be right; this is where the power is made.
>But all of it has to be straight and round on the Intake stroke, else the low-pressure (vacuum) is reduced, Effective stroke is lost, Effective pressure goes down, and the power goes away.
>Oiling of the cylinder walls keeps the wear to a minimum, and is a primary factor in ring-sealing. If the rings allow blow by, then you get pistons that look like yours between the ringlands, and the blow-by may burn the oil off the cylinder walls, creating products that the oil-rings then scrape off, and they get plugged, and no longer function correctly if at all.
> So you can see that the short block is not the place to cut corners, especially not as to round and straight bores. If you fail to do this right, you will just end up doing it over.
> but good news! Just have the machine shop measure these things with a dial-bore gauge. You just never know.......
BTW
consider this; the ring gaps change by a factor of 3.1416 per .001 change in bore size. Therefore a change of .0010 in bore size, will be .00314 change in ring-gap. So say the bottom is at 4.0600, and the top is 4.0620, that being totally possible, the ring gaps will change by .00628! Say from .030 to .036, which, at the top, is where the pressure is gonna begin to be made. Some of that is gonna try to escape thru the increased gap and so on. If, besides being tapered, the bores are not round, say goodby to your power. If the oil-rings fails to remove the proper amount of oil from the cylinder walls, now you have a serious oil-burner, and a detonation prone engine, ............ with....... all new parts.[/QUOT
See below.
I have a plan......The cylinders measure out at 4.070 (why I bought the engine) with no taper. I have found evidence of skirt scuffing because of the bad pin pressing ruining the piston holes. I have scrapped the rods and pistons. The crank measures out at 2.115 with no taper, so it's good at 10/10. I have a set of 340 floating rods that I am going to have re-conditioned. I will bring the block to the machine shop and have the bores brought up to 4.080 which is max overbore, and purchase 8 2316 pistons. I know there are better out there, but with the combo of the original rods and the heavier 2316's I should be able to assemble without a re-balance since the weights of the pistons and rods are really close to the originals. I have a set of U heads fresh from the machine shop and a new xe262 cam and lifters. Original cast iron intake and T/Q, with all new engine internals.
Sound viable?