Squareback vs round back alternator?
I'm thankful for all help, so it's never too late to chime in, thank you.
It was the first thing I checked if there's an electronic ignition after I couldn't find the ballast resistor. But it's a points ignition, check the pictures. Ballast resistor is necessary. The initial problem was that the fuse for the new "ignition relay" popped from time to time and the voltage at the battery contact was fluctuating heavily (btw 12 and 18 VDC) but with the engine running smooth. So we TS the reason. Once the Vreg was replaces by an electronic modell it was working very fine, exact 14,4 VDC at battery contact. Engine starts very well.
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You are right, on the key switch is only written IGN and not IGN1, I just wrote IGN1 because I thought it's easier to avoid misunderstandings.
Later into the trouble shooting we have seen the interconnection btw IGN and IGN2 just behind the key switch. I'm sure who ever worked here was smart and did the modifications for certain reason but also with the help of the other fellow forum users we couldn't find the reason for not having a ballast resistor except if the ign coil has already an internal one. THe coil didn't smell, nor was it looking overheated etc. So we decided to install a 0,6 Ohms.
As I wrote in post #72 the voltages measured at the ballast resistor (I modified the text and numbers as follows):
lower contact "A" (IGN from starter switch and IGN from Vreg)
engine off, key in RUN pos.: 11,7 Volts and dropping slowly
Engine cranking: 9-10 Volts
Engine idles and higher rotations: up to 14,4 Volts.
upper contact "B" (coil + and IGN 2 from key switch)
Engine off, key in RUN pos.: 7,5 Volts (means the voltage is reduced by the ballast resistor with engine off)
Engine cranking: 10 Volts
Engine idles and higher rotations: up to 13,8 Volts -> This I don't understand it should have lower voltage as well but it's math, Ohm's law...
We want the Voltage at the coil at max 8 Volts with engine running above idle were we have 14,4 VDC .
So it needs to drop 6,4 V. If I calculated right we need roughly a 2 Ohms resistor.
I'm thankful for all help, so it's never too late to chime in, thank you.
It was the first thing I checked if there's an electronic ignition after I couldn't find the ballast resistor. But it's a points ignition, check the pictures. Ballast resistor is necessary. The initial problem was that the fuse for the new "ignition relay" popped from time to time and the voltage at the battery contact was fluctuating heavily (btw 12 and 18 VDC) but with the engine running smooth. So we TS the reason. Once the Vreg was replaces by an electronic modell it was working very fine, exact 14,4 VDC at battery contact. Engine starts very well.
You are right, on the key switch is only written IGN and not IGN1, I just wrote IGN1 because I thought it's easier to avoid misunderstandings.
Later into the trouble shooting we have seen the interconnection btw IGN and IGN2 just behind the key switch. I'm sure who ever worked here was smart and did the modifications for certain reason but also with the help of the other fellow forum users we couldn't find the reason for not having a ballast resistor except if the ign coil has already an internal one. THe coil didn't smell, nor was it looking overheated etc. So we decided to install a 0,6 Ohms.
As I wrote in post #72 the voltages measured at the ballast resistor (I modified the text and numbers as follows):
lower contact "A" (IGN from starter switch and IGN from Vreg)
engine off, key in RUN pos.: 11,7 Volts and dropping slowly
Engine cranking: 9-10 Volts
Engine idles and higher rotations: up to 14,4 Volts.
upper contact "B" (coil + and IGN 2 from key switch)
Engine off, key in RUN pos.: 7,5 Volts (means the voltage is reduced by the ballast resistor with engine off)
Engine cranking: 10 Volts
Engine idles and higher rotations: up to 13,8 Volts -> This I don't understand it should have lower voltage as well but it's math, Ohm's law...
We want the Voltage at the coil at max 8 Volts with engine running above idle were we have 14,4 VDC .
So it needs to drop 6,4 V. If I calculated right we need roughly a 2 Ohms resistor.