Alterkation or K1?
I was updating my list for another thread, so, I thought I would add it here as well.
I have fixed a bunch of things to make this more "apples to apples" since that was a complaint. So I made this less of a comparison between an RMS AlterKation conversion and
my Duster and made it more an across the board comparison, because frankly I forgot a few things that I already had (spindles, for example) and also because there's a bunch of stuff on my car that's better than what RMS has out of the box. So, I added-
- 73+ A-body disk spindles (the RMS kit includes spindles and not everyone has 73+ spindles already)
- Camber bolts (new ones, because RMS has them, even though I'd reuse stock ones first)
- Viking double adjustable shocks (just like the RMS comes with so you can lose the Hotchkis comparison entirely)
- PST 16:1 manual box (I'd buy it vs a Flaming River box now)
- Proforged ball joints (the RMS doesn't come with Howe Racing ball joints, and the proforged stuff is great quality)
- Polyurethane LCA bushings and greaseable shafts (RMS comes with poly LCA bushings, not Delrin)
- 1.08" Bergman torsion bars (to keep the different shippers to a minimum, and the quality/function is comparable)
Apples to Apples right? And truly, it's still not quite there because the AlterK does not have double adjustable UCA's like the SPC's are and the BAC SPC's have Delrin bushings. But frankly the SPC's aren't significantly more expensive than other adjustable UCA's, you could save some money with QA1's but then someone would argue they're not single adjustable like the RMS even though they'll get you the alignment specs you need and the bushings are better for the street than the spherical rod ends the RMS has.
I also used the Borgeson steering box for a "power to power" comparison. I did
NOT use the "kit" price, I used the price for the box and the steering adaptor. I did this because the RMS AlterK does not include a steering pump, lines, or a pulley like the Borgeson kit does, so for a real "apples to apples" comparison I used exactly what you get with the RMS kit, which is just the rack and adaptor. Using a stock power steering box would be cheaper, but the Borgeson is more comparable to the power rack. And the lines, pump and pulley should be pretty comparable price-wise.
I did not include the PST FABO discount. Some of the shippers will have shipping prices (BAC, DoctorDiff, RMS) but there's a freight charge for the AlterK. Taxes would be less on the torsion bar stuff too because it's significantly less money.
Upgraded torsion bar suspension, 3/30/22 pricing
Front :
QA1 Adjustable strut bars - $243.95
1974 DODGE DART QA1 52311 QA1 Dynamic Adjustable Strut Bars | Summit Racing
QA1 LCA’s - $476.95
1974 DODGE DART QA1 52307 QA1 Mopar Control Arms | Summit Racing
QA1 tie rod sleeves- $68.95
1974 DODGE DART QA1 52325 QA1 Heavy-Duty Tie Rod Sleeves | Summit Racing
Proforged tie rod ends- $174.52 (all 4)
1974 DODGE DART Proforged Chassis Parts 104-10157 Proforged Tie Rod Ends | Summit Racing
1974 DODGE DART Proforged Chassis Parts 104-10156 Proforged Tie Rod Ends | Summit Racing
Proforged lower ball joint (driver)- $47.59
1974 DODGE DART Proforged Chassis Parts 101-10129 Proforged Ball Joints | Summit Racing
Proforged lower ball joint (passenger)- $43.63
1974 DODGE DART Proforged Chassis Parts 101-10128 Proforged Ball Joints | Summit Racing
Viking double adjustable shocks-$338
Viking Performance Stock Mount Front Shocks
Proforged upper ball joints- $39.60 (both included)
1974 DODGE DART Proforged Chassis Parts 101-10126 Proforged Ball Joints | Summit Racing
PST manual steering box - $339.00
Manual Steering Box 16:1
Moog pitman arm (manual) - $49.99
1974 DODGE DART Moog Chassis Parts K7075 Moog Replacement Pitman Arms | Summit Racing
Moog idler - $33.99
1974 DODGE DART Moog Chassis Parts K7086 Moog Replacement Idler Arms | Summit Racing
Hellwig 55905 front sway bar- $239.99
1974 DODGE DART Hellwig 55905 Hellwig Motorsports Tubular Sway Bars | Summit Racing
Bergman Autocraft SPC UCA’s (1st gen)- $375
https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/bac-spc-upper-control-arms/
Bergman Autocraft 1.08” torsion bars- $319
https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/mopar-a-body-torsion-bar-set-1-08/
Proforged polyurethane control arm shaft kit w/bushings- $110.95
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-120-10003/make/dodge/model/dart/year/1974
Proforged Camber bolts - $34.32 (2 sets)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-120-10009/make/dodge/model/dart/year/1974
DoctorDiff 73+ disk spindles- $155
https://www.doctordiff.com/reproduction-disc-brake-knuckles.html
Total: $3,140.42 (manual to manual)
Savings of
$899.58 vs AlterK w/manual steering (and no sway bar on that AlterK, so it would be more if you add it)
Or add power steering-
Borgeson box from BAC $889
https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/borgeson-steering-box-conversion-kit-large-sector/
Total: $3,690.42 (power steering, pump and lines not included just like the RMS)
Savings of
$1,049.58 vs AlterK with power rack
And here's AlterK pricing with links so you can check it, all above board. I realized I used the price with engine mounts last time, so, I used the price without mounts since I didn't include replacement engine mounts in my torsion bar pricing. I'm not going to compare Borgeson power steering to a manual rack, because that's 100% bullshit. Manual to manual, power to power.
Street/Strip RMS AlterK (manual rack,
no sway bar, no engine mounts)- $4,040
https://www.reillymotorsports.com/a...stem-street-strip-67-76-a-body-no-mounts.html
Street/Handling RMS AlterK (power rack, sway bar, no engine mounts)- $4,740
https://www.reillymotorsports.com/?target=product&product_id=16247
I think it should be obvious that neither of these set ups are "pinching pennies", and the savings are still about $1k for a fully rebuilt torsion bar system that is very comparable as far as quality of components go to the AlterK's. If anything, it's the AlterK that falls short because of the lack of a sway bar on the manual to manual comparison price and the lack of double adjustable UCA's on both. And of course you could probably save another $500 on the torsion bar rebuild by leaving out the tubular LCA's most people don't need and boxing the stock lowers, but then you wouldn't have a full tubular set up for comparison purposes (even though the car would handle just as well) and you'd need to be able to weld.