Intake manifold choices
The air gap will do little to help your problem. You need to stop the fuel from vaporizing in the fuel line. In the mid 80's not sure of what year they made a fuel filter with a return line built in for this reason.
I had the same issue with my Duster. Everytime I would go to start it after stopping for a while it would flood. I began turning the electric pump on and off until cool fuel reached the carburetor .
Tony Hershman. a Troyer Race car shop owner told me to put a return on my car. This was not cheap having to buy the line, fittings and the new regulator. But Tony and his son are well known in racing. His son is Kyle Bush's spotter .
Being it had an electric pump I had to get a different pressure regulator to use on the return line .
So I replaced the regulator on the feed line and used it as a return . Then ran a new feed line directly to the carburetor. $200 for line alone . But I trusted Tony and the Nascar guys. I never had that problem again. In fact the time slips were more consistent going back to back rounds.
Big difference that you all could not imagine. You need to keep the fuel moving in a circle back to the tank so it stays cool.
Its the fuel in the line that when it is boiling will not let the floats shut off the needle and seat until it gets solid fuel. It has nothing to do with the intake or carb. Fuel injection would be the ultimate fix. We are now going with a holley 4500 sniper on the new car.
Before
After
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https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_stealth_4500/parts/550-841y
What I wanted to add is that if you are pulling fuel from the tank your symptom may be lack of pump pressure also. because its boiling before the pump. You'll lose power then when you go to start it it floods . Double whammy.
My car was pushing fuel. But I have seen the pulling problem.
Then I installed the 80's three nipple filter on a manual pump on the car with a factory style return . Most cars after 70 have a return line you can plumb in.
The air gap will do little to help your problem. You need to stop the fuel from vaporizing in the fuel line. In the mid 80's not sure of what year they made a fuel filter with a return line built in for this reason.
I had the same issue with my Duster. Everytime I would go to start it after stopping for a while it would flood. I began turning the electric pump on and off until cool fuel reached the carburetor .
Tony Hershman. a Troyer Race car shop owner told me to put a return on my car. This was not cheap having to buy the line, fittings and the new regulator. But Tony and his son are well known in racing. His son is Kyle Bush's spotter .
Being it had an electric pump I had to get a different pressure regulator to use on the return line .
So I replaced the regulator on the feed line and used it as a return . Then ran a new feed line directly to the carburetor. $200 for line alone . But I trusted Tony and the Nascar guys. I never had that problem again. In fact the time slips were more consistent going back to back rounds.
Big difference that you all could not imagine. You need to keep the fuel moving in a circle back to the tank so it stays cool.
Its the fuel in the line that when it is boiling will not let the floats shut off the needle and seat until it gets solid fuel. It has nothing to do with the intake or carb. Fuel injection would be the ultimate fix. We are now going with a holley 4500 sniper on the new car.
Before
After
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_stealth_4500/parts/550-841y
What I wanted to add is that if you are pulling fuel from the tank your symptom may be lack of pump pressure also. because its boiling before the pump. You'll lose power then when you go to start it it floods . Double whammy.
My car was pushing fuel. But I have seen the pulling problem.
Then I installed the 80's three nipple filter on a manual pump on the car with a factory style return . Most cars after 70 have a return line you can plumb in.