Big Block Suspension Question

DC Dart said
The 1.08 bars look like a good size for my application. Will likely go that route. I think I will go with a basic tubular upper A arm with built in caster. My K has been re welded and powder coated.
How long do the heim joints typically last in the strut rods versus bushings?
A lot of options to make the old suspension look and drive better.
Will likely have a few more scratches in the TTIs and cus words during install of OEM based suspension than if I ran one of the Coil over conversions. LOL

I put 70k miles on the QA1 style adjustable strut rods on my Challenger, the heims are still good. There really isn’t much load on them there. I like the QA1 style better, they’re easier to adjust.

Now, the heims on my Hotchkis UCA’s on the same car have only been lasting about 7 to 10k miles. I would keep bushings there.

DC Dart said
Cool. Does RMS build OEM style components too? Looks like the adjustable strut rods are mostly identical among manufacturers. Is the extra adjustment in the upper A arms very beneficial? I have the KYBs too. Many years ago they were very popular. Lots has changed. LOL

Extra adjustment at the UCA can be handy, but it depends on the use and set up of the car. For example, on my Duster I run 275/35/18’s on the front, and overcoming the tires tendency to self steer takes more caster. I actually run +6.5* of caster on that car, and you’re not going to get that much out of most non adjustable tubular UCA’s. But if your plan is to run 225/60/15’s you don’t need that much either, so a set of non adjustable UCA’s with some extra caster built in would be fine.

With 1.08” bars you will definitely want to ditch the KYB’s. Bilstein RCD’s or the Hotchkis Fox’s both work well.