Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?
The purpose of a voltmeter is to have a gauge that is meaningful, BECAUSE you bypassed the ammeter, and the reason for doing the bypass is "if" or "that you suspect" that harness and connector damage has or will occur because of high current. The more accessories you've added and the higher the alternator output (50A or more) the more likely this is to occur
Start by reading the MAD article. If you do not do the bypass as they did, this article at least points out some of the reasons and problems
Catalog
Below is the simplified diagram of primary power from that page
Every single terminal and connector in the path from the alternator to the battery, and to the various loads, AND the smaller size of original wiring is a potential problem. "The Usual Suspects" are the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter terminals and the guts of the ammeter itself
There are basically three strategies to either improve the situation or to bypass the ammeter, in no particular order:
1....The MADD method
2....Some of us basically run a new, larger wire from the alternator to the battery WITH AN appropriate fuse or fuse link
3....The factory had a bulkhead connector bypass known as "police/ fleet/ taxi" wiring which is documented in some service manuals. Look up about a 69--72 service manual (at MyMopar) and lookup Belevedere/ Fury etc "optional 65A alternator) and you'll find that the factory? dealer? modified the wiring, and ran larger wiring through the firewall on SEPARATE grommets, not using the bulkhead connector
The purpose of a voltmeter is to have a gauge that is meaningful, BECAUSE you bypassed the ammeter, and the reason for doing the bypass is "if" or "that you suspect" that harness and connector damage has or will occur because of high current. The more accessories you've added and the higher the alternator output (50A or more) the more likely this is to occur
Start by reading the MAD article. If you do not do the bypass as they did, this article at least points out some of the reasons and problems
Catalog
Below is the simplified diagram of primary power from that page
Every single terminal and connector in the path from the alternator to the battery, and to the various loads, AND the smaller size of original wiring is a potential problem. "The Usual Suspects" are the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter terminals and the guts of the ammeter itself
There are basically three strategies to either improve the situation or to bypass the ammeter, in no particular order:
1....The MADD method
2....Some of us basically run a new, larger wire from the alternator to the battery WITH AN appropriate fuse or fuse link
3....The factory had a bulkhead connector bypass known as "police/ fleet/ taxi" wiring which is documented in some service manuals. Look up about a 69--72 service manual (at MyMopar) and lookup Belevedere/ Fury etc "optional 65A alternator) and you'll find that the factory? dealer? modified the wiring, and ran larger wiring through the firewall on SEPARATE grommets, not using the bulkhead connector