Holly carb help
I both agree and disagree with your post (above). LOL I'll break it down after addressing your question to me and Dr Fate.
Less timing is gonna clean up the plugs? No fkn way.lol
Who said the plugs are carbon fouled?
Josh has only said the AFR numbers on his meter show richer than he was shooting for.
Even if they were showing overly rich at idle, are you saying increasing initial even more than 36* will clean them up? ?????
the timing locked @36 a is not the cause for the rich condition you have.
By itself, basically agree
Set them to the transfer slots first, .020 exposed or to what looks like a square.
Agree. Primary side anyway.
Then set the idle screws abou 1/2 to 3/4 turn out both primary n secondary. Ideally you want the idle screws out the same amount all 4 corners and the blades open the same amount all 4
Basically disagree. Its fine to begin with 3/4 out with a four corner that has strong idle, BUT there is no magic number of turns out that is right. Adjust each one as needed for best power. Important thing is that the engine responds to adjustment. As far as the secondary throttle positions go, it depends on the carb. Again no reason they must be the same as the primaries unless doing a 1:1 linkage.
but if you have tmo lower idle speed...close the secondaries some, little at a time
I agree that they can be tweaked further open or shut to help idle conditions. But if the t-slots are not as long as the primaries, then its best if the t-slots don't show.
'The holley red book is a must have for beginners and details a lot of this crap'
I agree that Urich's 4150/60 is an excellent introduction.
I use a digital timging light and watch the rpms on the light...open the idle screws till the rpm reaches its highest ,and only up to and never beyond....from there fire it up n set the timing to 20 and let run....till warm... then advance the timing to 24....tshut it off then try n start it...from there advance 2 degrees at a time.. each time shutting it off and restarting it till the starter fights/kicks back....once it does... go back 2 degrees. That's roughly the initial timing it wants
I know this is a popular approach in some circles. I personally disagree with it. In my view initial timing should be chosen based on building the most power in gear at slow idle. Obviously that can not apply when a locked timing is chosen for racing.
the PV and its rating which should roughly be half if the vac reading you get with trans mission in gear brakes on ...again ..once you get the idle dialed...ex if 8 then 3.5-4.5 for automatic in I choose only about 2" below reading for stick cars or big stall
Disagree.
As long as the PVCR is much smaller than the main jets PV will have little effect idle. But in general what Mark shows in the video here holds true.
Quick fuel carb fuel pressure too high? Rich idle...
PV opening has been covered in detail before so can refer back to that thread you're interested in why rather than make a big sidetrack in this one.
Power Valve Selection: The Definitive Answer
but 1st jet down the carburetors primary jets 2 sizes at a time till the engine surges at cruise '60mph+'....then go back up 2 jet sizes.
Agree