Holly carb help

Mattax said
I both agree and disagree with your post (above). LOL I'll break it down after addressing your question to me and Dr Fate.

Who said the plugs are carbon fouled?
Josh has only said the AFR numbers on his meter show richer than he was shooting for.
Even if they were showing overly rich at idle, are you saying increasing initial even more than 36* will clean them up? ?????

By itself, basically agree

Agree. Primary side anyway.

Basically disagree. Its fine to begin with 3/4 out with a four corner that has strong idle, BUT there is no magic number of turns out that is right. Adjust each one as needed for best power. Important thing is that the engine responds to adjustment. As far as the secondary throttle positions go, it depends on the carb. Again no reason they must be the same as the primaries unless doing a 1:1 linkage.

I agree that they can be tweaked further open or shut to help idle conditions. But if the t-slots are not as long as the primaries, then its best if the t-slots don't show.

I agree that Urich's 4150/60 is an excellent introduction.

I know this is a popular approach in some circles. I personally disagree with it. In my view initial timing should be chosen based on building the most power in gear at slow idle. Obviously that can not apply when a locked timing is chosen for racing.

Disagree.
As long as the PVCR is much smaller than the main jets PV will have little effect idle. But in general what Mark shows in the video here holds true.
Quick fuel carb fuel pressure too high? Rich idle...
PV opening has been covered in detail before so can refer back to that thread you're interested in why rather than make a big sidetrack in this one. 1
Power Valve Selection: The Definitive Answer

Agree

Sounds like you're saying I said the pv effects idle/mains.? I said to use the vac at idle as a starting point for choosing the pv.
@36 at idle...the blades are probably barely open even @1100 rpm... again its 36 btdc.. he is not in the mains by a long shot...yet the afr is rich....is it floats high, have the bleeds been changed...who knows..
I also stated to use the timing lights tach as reference to ultimately how many turns out the idle screws should end up or how rich by watching the rpms climb. If you don't do it that way, that's your preference. I've done it for years. He is also idling on the secondary circuit...but no ones addressing that besides me. Okay...??
I don't run around accepting the carb guru title like some rat turds, but I've known how to tune for decades and if you rode in my cars.. you would instantly know that.
I remember the 1st chassis dyno test, the fuel ratio I dialed myself with test drives and a timing light in my 20's
..only funk was a momentary blip from the secondary shooter 'one bigger than what I had in the carb box'...afr was sweet, near perfect. Made 392 hp with stock x heads n a .528 cam 750 holley.
Everything I said to do is to get him to clear waters where he more fine tune. Even after a few beers that still pretty damn good advice...but If anyone thought I was saying 'this is exactly what it wants' they're mistaken and imo only looking to be better than someone else.
I gave all the advice I need to give at this point.

Good luck OP.