Yet another ECU question
When you start talking wire colors, "things go wrong" because the colors are not always the same
Be certain the ballast, which is just two DIFFERENT value resistors, in one "box" --be sure that it is connected so the correct resistor is in the correct circuits. This is "coded" by the "open U" cutout in the ceramic block at one end.
Also as time goes on, it gets more and more UNlikely that you NEED a dual ballast, because if the "old style" (5 pin OEM) box has ever been replaced, it is far more likely to be (electrically) a newer 4 pin box. You can NOT tell by looking as some 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins. You can only know by "trying" it or by carefully making resistance checks to the 5th pin to determine if it is open (infinity) to the other pins / case.
Make CERTAIN the case is grounded, and "work" the dist pickup connector in/ out several times to check for "tightness" and scrub the terminals clean
Simplified diagrams from MyMopar for 4 and 5 pin boxes. A TRUE 5 PIN BOX MUST HAVE a dual ballast, but a true 4 pin box MAY USE either a single or dual ballast
The wire at far top right in both diagrams marked "existing" is the "run" power feed coming from the key. THIS GOES DEAD DURING CRANKING
The power to fire the engine during cranking is not shown, but it is a (usually brown) that comes from the key "bypass" circuit (IGN2) and feeds to the ballast terminal running to the coil + terminal. This power feeds hot full battery to the coil + AND FEEDS THE BOX backwards, during cranking, through the ballast and to the box
When you start talking wire colors, "things go wrong" because the colors are not always the same
Be certain the ballast, which is just two DIFFERENT value resistors, in one "box" --be sure that it is connected so the correct resistor is in the correct circuits. This is "coded" by the "open U" cutout in the ceramic block at one end.
Also as time goes on, it gets more and more UNlikely that you NEED a dual ballast, because if the "old style" (5 pin OEM) box has ever been replaced, it is far more likely to be (electrically) a newer 4 pin box. You can NOT tell by looking as some 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins. You can only know by "trying" it or by carefully making resistance checks to the 5th pin to determine if it is open (infinity) to the other pins / case.
Make CERTAIN the case is grounded, and "work" the dist pickup connector in/ out several times to check for "tightness" and scrub the terminals clean
Simplified diagrams from MyMopar for 4 and 5 pin boxes. A TRUE 5 PIN BOX MUST HAVE a dual ballast, but a true 4 pin box MAY USE either a single or dual ballast
The wire at far top right in both diagrams marked "existing" is the "run" power feed coming from the key. THIS GOES DEAD DURING CRANKING
The power to fire the engine during cranking is not shown, but it is a (usually brown) that comes from the key "bypass" circuit (IGN2) and feeds to the ballast terminal running to the coil + terminal. This power feeds hot full battery to the coil + AND FEEDS THE BOX backwards, during cranking, through the ballast and to the box
