Looking at Tubular K member

I built my 70 'cuda 600 years ago with the RMS front and rear suspension. Great product and it handles like it's on rails. If you really want to go torsion-less though you HAVE to do some welding. I would say that at the very least you need sub-frame connectors. I also highly recommend j-bars or the XV style bars that go under the fender tops. As pointed out the torsion bars do a lot to support the car's structure so think about that when you delete them.

Having said that, I have just completed a major big time all out front suspension build using torsion bars. The car isn't ready yet but I have the system built and on a dolly with the engine and trans sitting on top of it.

I have every expectation that it will handle as good as the IFS (some say Mustang II). I only put the whiz-bangest parts on it; big bars, k-frame stiffening, SPC UCA's, boxed LCA's, adj. strut rods, 11/16" tie rods, Fox adj. shocks, ....

@72bluNblu and I have had it out on this before and I concede, the IFS systems are more expensive, even when the t-bar suspension is built full boogie, but only slightly. Now, add in that you will have to pay a welder, or buy the material if you weld, and do the stiffening on the car to support the t-bar-less unibody then the spread gets even greater.

Now, you say you may want to piece meal it and put it together a little as you go to spread the cost? No better way to go than the OEM suspension. For me, the biggest benefit was the header clearance for the fitment. Get some Doug's D453 to make life easier.

After having my k-frame out and cleaning it I noticed how absolutely shitty Chrysler was at welding QC. I will never install another OEM k-frame without stiffening it. That work was down right criminal.