Is It Possible?........
You can have a good handling car without going full on pro-touring. It will limit your handling capabilities strictly because of the tires available (or not available). 14’s will really put a hurt on your handling, even 15’s have more options.
That said, the rest of the recipe is the same. Lower a little bit from stock, you don’t need to put it in the weeds because you won’t have the tires to back it up anyway. Run a good alignment, you can use the SKOSH chart as is if you’re not changing out UCA’s. Offset bushings in the stock UCA’s and as much positive camber as you can get should be fine as your tires will still be fairly narrow.
1” to 1.03” torsion bars should be fine, no reason to go bigger than since you won’t have the grip to need more. Still worth running sway bars front and rear. I would still get rid of all the rubber bushings, poly with greaseable pins and zerks will be good, get rid of some of the rubber slop in the suspension anyway.
Some mild chassis stiffening, torque boxes and subframe connectors would be good. Same with reinforcing the K frame, seam weld and a steering box gusset and LCA pivot pin reinforced would help eliminate some extra flex especially in the steering.
You might take a look at these tires. The pattern is classic looking, but they come in a 220 treadwear so they’re a soft compound. Lots of classic sport cars in these. And at 205/70/14 they’d be a bit over 25” tall. There are some 200 treadwear tires available, like even thr Falken azenis I run. But they’re in like 195/60/14 so they’re only 23” tall.
***Edit***
link doesn't seem to be working, these are the 205/70/14's I'm talking about- V rated (149 mph), 220 treadwear. Not available until the end of the year unfortunately...
You can have a good handling car without going full on pro-touring. It will limit your handling capabilities strictly because of the tires available (or not available). 14’s will really put a hurt on your handling, even 15’s have more options.
That said, the rest of the recipe is the same. Lower a little bit from stock, you don’t need to put it in the weeds because you won’t have the tires to back it up anyway. Run a good alignment, you can use the SKOSH chart as is if you’re not changing out UCA’s. Offset bushings in the stock UCA’s and as much positive camber as you can get should be fine as your tires will still be fairly narrow.
1” to 1.03” torsion bars should be fine, no reason to go bigger than since you won’t have the grip to need more. Still worth running sway bars front and rear. I would still get rid of all the rubber bushings, poly with greaseable pins and zerks will be good, get rid of some of the rubber slop in the suspension anyway.
Some mild chassis stiffening, torque boxes and subframe connectors would be good. Same with reinforcing the K frame, seam weld and a steering box gusset and LCA pivot pin reinforced would help eliminate some extra flex especially in the steering.
You might take a look at these tires. The pattern is classic looking, but they come in a 220 treadwear so they’re a soft compound. Lots of classic sport cars in these. And at 205/70/14 they’d be a bit over 25” tall. There are some 200 treadwear tires available, like even thr Falken azenis I run. But they’re in like 195/60/14 so they’re only 23” tall.
***Edit***
link doesn't seem to be working, these are the 205/70/14's I'm talking about- V rated (149 mph), 220 treadwear. Not available until the end of the year unfortunately...