K-Member / Rack & Pinion Steering Suggestions

I didn't oversimplify anything. Excluding the engine, which we're not really talking about here, there are only a few differences between my car and the Red Brick. The 6 point cage, the Nascar sway bar, and 1.2" bars mostly. There are quite a few components on my car that exceed the capabilities of the parts on the Red Brick. The simple fact is that I've seen the Red Bricks specs before, and they influenced how I built my car (along with a few other builds). So if you want to do this, let's do this.

The Red Brick vs 72Blu's Duster

  • Torque boxes---------------------------------
  • subframe connectors-------------------------
  • lower radiator support brace----------------
  • firewall to frame rail bars underhood--------
  • 6 point cage-----------------------------------X
  • A833------------------------------------------T56(2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00/.80/.63)
  • B-body 8 3/4 housing------------------------('68-70, 4.30 w/ TrueTrac)
  • 13" Baer brakes------------------------------13" Cobra style brakes, DoctorDiff
  • Mustang Cobra rear disks--------------------(11.7")
  • 15/16" master--------------------------------
  • Adjustable pressure valve--------------------
  • Seam welded/reinforced K frame------------
  • 1.2" bars---------------------------------------1.12" bars (street car)
  • Nascar sway bar-------------------------------Hellwig #55905 1.125"
  • FMJ spindles-----------------------------------
  • FFI UCA's---------------------------------------SPC double adjustable UCA's with Delrin bushings
  • Boxed stock LCA's------------------------------QA1 tubular LCA's (~1" additional travel, 8 lbs lighter)
  • Poly LCA bushings------------------------------Delrin LCA bushings
  • FFI SIII steering box (power, 16:1)-----------Flaming River 16:1 manual steering box
  • 11/16" tie rods---------------------------------9/16" tie rods with tubular steel adjusters
  • Poly strut rod bushings (stock strut rods!)----Adjustable strut rods
  • Bilstein shocks-----------------------------------Hotchkis Fox shocks
  • AR front hangers (stock w/ lowering hole)-----
  • F-body shackles---------------------------------AFCO spring sliders (no lateral slop)
  • 340 springs (110 lb/in rate)--------------------AFCO 120 lb/in springs
  • .875" rear sway bar----------------------------
  • battery relocation-------------------------------
  • Denso alternator-------------------------------- (175 amp)
  • aluminum radiator w/electric fans------------- (26" aluminum radiator with Contour dual electric, dual speed fans 3k/5k cfm).
  • 275/40/17 Falken Azenis 17x9-----------------275/35/18 on 18x9", 295/40/18 on 18x10", Falken Azenis
And honestly, the list I posted right at the beginning pretty much covers everything the Red Brick has suspension wise. The bars are smaller because we're talking about primarily street use. The chassis reinforcement and other things were left out, but, they'd have to be added to make a RMS or HDK car hang with the Red Brick too. For comparison purposes I leave out the stuff you'd have to do either way- brakes, chassis reinforcement, engine, etc. But if you wanted your RMS or HDK equipped car to hang with the Red Brick, you'd have to do all the chassis and engine work too.

Suspension wise, the Red Brick is not an extraordinary set up, it uses more stock parts than my car does. And honestly, that's been my whole point all along. It has a lot of other things going on for sure, but the suspension modifications are pretty basic and straightforward.


WoW!

First of all, before I say anything else, thanks very much for the side by side comparison. Not many people on here take the time to explain their setup as detailed as you and its really appreciated. I will be the first to say that there's a lot I didn't know about modifying Ma Mopar's stock setup. Your car and the Brick's have certainly taken the stock setup to the next level. Never knew about a Nascar swaybar setup!

I wasn't trying to be a dick when I said you were oversimplifying about how the brick could stay with a Vette. I was saying that in my opinion , it takes a lot more than just modifying suspension to beat it. As was stated, the driver is also a big part of the equasion but for the moment we are discussing cars.

I do have an alterior motive for being engaged in this discussion so I am watching/reading intently. My next project is a 69 Barracuda Convertible. I want to build a 69 Formula S Clone but , with a highly modified Aluminum block (If I can find one) Slant 6 with a 6- speed transmission , 3:91 489 Suregrip. This will be a street car with the best handling I can put in it. I have most of the factory Formula S parts from cars I have scrapped including K Member, sway bar (Car was 383-s), torsion bars. I will use US Cartools lower Rad support, torque boxes and frame rail connectors. Considering gussetting K member , boxing lower control arms, possibly Borgeson box if I can't find a solution to install a rack and pinion . (any thoughts on this would be apreciated! ) Also, because its a Convertible, I need to address ridgidity . I've read of using an X-Frame behind the rear seat to tie the car together. It will need something for sure as body flex is bad.. From my searches, no one has done this yet so it will be a unique project. Good power/fuel economy, great visuals and excellent handling. Yes I know I can go with a V-8 but thats not the direction I want to go.