My Toxic '74 Duster

The list for the "Green Brick" is below, I borrowed it but it was all published in Mopar Action back in the day. The build is good but outdated in my opinion, but it's about as good as you can do if you're going to keep 15" rims. I still think the torsion bars a bit small. The rear springs are too stiff, and you can run more positive caster even with the 15" rims. The offset bushings limit this, but even with those you can usually get to +3.5° on a lot of cars. Ehrenberg has some kind of heartburn about more positive caster, like his deal with FMJ spindles it's misguided.

Suspension/Chassis

• Tension strut rod bushings changed to urethane (Don't do this, poly at the strut rod also resists suspension travel, just use adjustable strut rods)
• Moog k7103 problem solver upper control arm bushings
• Gusset upper control arm mount from bracket to rail
• Weld heavy washer to k member around nose of lower control arm stud tube
• Frame connectors
• Gusset upper control arm/shock tower bracket to fender apron
• Gusset steering box mounting bracket to k member
• 74 and up C body tie rods 11/16 bolt in (not really necessary if using fully tubular adjusters, the flex was the split adjuster not the tie rod end)
• Urethane sway bar frame bushings
• Box lower control arm
• 920 torsion bars (too small, especially if you run better compound tires)
• 1 inch sway bar
• Koni shocks on full firm (RCD's or Hotchkis are MUCH better)
• 16:1 manual steering box
• Eliminate bump steer in the chassis book (small to begin with, bonus points but not necessary)

Alignment specs

• -1.5° degrees negative camber (over -1° will give you camber wear on the street)
• +2.5° positive caster (more would be better, but the offset bushings and stock UCA's limit this)
• 1/16 to 3/32 toe in

Rear end

• De arched ss springs (too stiff, that's why there's no rear sway bar mentioned)
• Koni shocks and rancho kicker shocks from offroad dodge pickups which controls wheel hop

Brakes

• 76 up 11.75 x 1" rotors w/ AR caliper brackets for '92-'02 Viper calipers
• 73 up drum brake steering knuckles for large wheel bearings
• 73 up big ball joint upper control arms
• 10" x 2.5 drums on rear.

Tires/Wheels

• Light weight aluminum 15 x 8 rims
• Tires temp rating of A
• Traction rating AA or A
• No m&s, all season or plus 4 tires
• Treadwear rating the lower the better - WITHIN REASON. Most "street car" competitions limit treadwear to 200, anything under 200 is basically a track only tire. Over 400 is a hockey puck. 200-350 is a great tire that can also pull regular street duty.

So for me, even with 15" rims I would still run tubular UCA's for more built in positive caster. I would run adjustable strut rods, because poly bushings at the strut rod add resistance to the suspension travel. I'd still run poly or Delrin LCA bushings. Torsion bars would 1" or larger. And good shocks, RCD Bilsteins or Hotchkis. Rear springs should be like 120-130 lb/in with a rear sway bar for more adjustability.