New trailer. Where to weld the D rings?
Mine are "over done" as I didn't know what I'd be hauling. I have two on each side along with some stake pockets.
For cars, tho, I mostly use the one on the front header and rear the ties go pretty much straight forward and straight back
I'm tellin you guys, this nonsense of tying "X" (cross) is just that. If one comes loose, the car can walz sideways and then the three remaining are LOOSE. If you tie it straight forward and straight back, 1 can break or come slack and the other two will hold against each other, and the remaining 3'rd will still hold against the opposite end. If it is too thing, figure a way to beef it. Ad structure underneath or whatever it takes
Below, you cannot see the rear chains, but you can kinda see the front ones going forwards. Along the side, you have a stake pocket to the above and right of the front clearance lamp, then a D ring ahead of the fender. You can't see another one just rear of the fender, then in the shadow, there's a rear stake pocket. The last "bump" in the shade is a stub mimicking a 2" receiver (short) so I can plug in a tongue jack on each rear corner. The bed has been made to tilt. There used to be a thread on this, don't know if it's "still."
I normally don't even use binders on the rear. I put the rig on and block it, string the chains at the rear, and hook them "equal" and then roll the rig up forward so the rear chains are tight and then put binders on both fronts. The front ones, then, are in tension against the rears
A photo after I converted the trailer to tilt. I did not "do" it strong enough and one of these days I'm gonna have to "beef" the tounge where it changes angle. I used an HF cherry picker ram which you can/ could buy separate for less than 100
The spare mount is not "permanent." I welded a vertical "socket" and made a bracket to drop into it, then chained through the middle of the tube and through the tire with a padlock. This allows "if I need to" to quickly pull the spare off if loading something difficult. So far have not needed to.
Mine are "over done" as I didn't know what I'd be hauling. I have two on each side along with some stake pockets.
For cars, tho, I mostly use the one on the front header and rear the ties go pretty much straight forward and straight back
I'm tellin you guys, this nonsense of tying "X" (cross) is just that. If one comes loose, the car can walz sideways and then the three remaining are LOOSE. If you tie it straight forward and straight back, 1 can break or come slack and the other two will hold against each other, and the remaining 3'rd will still hold against the opposite end. If it is too thing, figure a way to beef it. Ad structure underneath or whatever it takes
Below, you cannot see the rear chains, but you can kinda see the front ones going forwards. Along the side, you have a stake pocket to the above and right of the front clearance lamp, then a D ring ahead of the fender. You can't see another one just rear of the fender, then in the shadow, there's a rear stake pocket. The last "bump" in the shade is a stub mimicking a 2" receiver (short) so I can plug in a tongue jack on each rear corner. The bed has been made to tilt. There used to be a thread on this, don't know if it's "still."
I normally don't even use binders on the rear. I put the rig on and block it, string the chains at the rear, and hook them "equal" and then roll the rig up forward so the rear chains are tight and then put binders on both fronts. The front ones, then, are in tension against the rears
A photo after I converted the trailer to tilt. I did not "do" it strong enough and one of these days I'm gonna have to "beef" the tounge where it changes angle. I used an HF cherry picker ram which you can/ could buy separate for less than 100
The spare mount is not "permanent." I welded a vertical "socket" and made a bracket to drop into it, then chained through the middle of the tube and through the tire with a padlock. This allows "if I need to" to quickly pull the spare off if loading something difficult. So far have not needed to.