1964 Dart Grüne Hölle Road Course/Track Day/AutoX Project
8/16/22:
Last Week the Clutch Eyebolts Arrived in 2 days From Kentucky Clutch:
I hand Surfaced the Pressure Ring with a Diamond Stone as it was Not wrecked enough After say 8000 miles to warrant sending out to be blanchard ground.
The parts allowed me to put the pressure plate all back together, hopefully the Fingers will not fatigue, or crack etc. (fingers crossed) if It happens again I have one of the "Spec" Brand Fiero diaphragm Pressure Plates to try next, as they are a direct bolt in / replacement for a 9" slant 6 Borg and Beck Finger / Spring Style Pressure Plate.
Pressure Plate Reassembly:
Every gearhead's household basement should have a 20 Ton Press next to the water heater, makes those pesky bearing and seal jobs at 1AM oh so convenient. :D :D
Push it all together with a somewhat close to proper thickness clutch disc, set the finger height, lock down or weld the nuts for the clutch eyebolts... call it good to go.
While I had the Pressure Plate and clutch disc removed from the flywheel I found the input bearing adapter to have dislodged from the back of the crank - I knew It was a light Press fit, but it was too light.
Fortunately It did not do any real damage, just was not supporting the input shaft correctly and was running against the clutch disc. I put it back in the proper place and used some Red Loctite 242 to hopefully hold it in place properly.
I figured this was a good time to make the switch to a hydraulic throwout bearing and get rid of the bulky clutch linkage, Z bar, clutch fork and other associated rods. I had already spent some considerable time reengineering the linkage and reinforcing the Z bar and other parts of the linkage to make it Skookum as Frig, but I was unhappy with how much flex there was in the dash with the clutch pedal pressed down, hopefully this will be better.
Because the Transmission is T5/Ford Parts are readily available and ubiquitous.. Not Something I am accustomed to with Slant 6's and Early Non B/E Body Mopars.
Hydraulic TOB - I used A Tilton 60-6104 - Literature says it's for a Diaphragm Pressure Plate, But it seems to work fine with the 3 Finger one as well. It has a little "finger stick" that replaces one of the input bearing retainer bolts.. this stick is used to keep the bearing body from spinning, some of the hydro TOB's I investigated just used the supply and feed lines for the anti rotation. - This method seemed like a better engineered idea to me.
I am actuating it with a Wilwood GS Compact Master Cylinder 260-15098. They make these in a variety of bore sizes and intergal as well as remote reservoir versions.
Made up some quick mounts and firewall reinforcement plates from scrap metal.
To get somewhat decent geometry to actuate the new clutch master I welded another actuator "nub" on the clutch pedal below the original one. If I ever need to revert back to the linkage and rod system I could do so without much trouble.
I had a helper at the shop help with a bit of the install.
Done, with a pedal stop added on the floor.
Clutch cylinder tucks in nicely next to the brake master, with just enough room to spin the cap off for fluid checks and fill.
8/16/22:
Last Week the Clutch Eyebolts Arrived in 2 days From Kentucky Clutch:
I hand Surfaced the Pressure Ring with a Diamond Stone as it was Not wrecked enough After say 8000 miles to warrant sending out to be blanchard ground.
The parts allowed me to put the pressure plate all back together, hopefully the Fingers will not fatigue, or crack etc. (fingers crossed) if It happens again I have one of the "Spec" Brand Fiero diaphragm Pressure Plates to try next, as they are a direct bolt in / replacement for a 9" slant 6 Borg and Beck Finger / Spring Style Pressure Plate.
Pressure Plate Reassembly:
Every gearhead's household basement should have a 20 Ton Press next to the water heater, makes those pesky bearing and seal jobs at 1AM oh so convenient. :D :D
Push it all together with a somewhat close to proper thickness clutch disc, set the finger height, lock down or weld the nuts for the clutch eyebolts... call it good to go.
While I had the Pressure Plate and clutch disc removed from the flywheel I found the input bearing adapter to have dislodged from the back of the crank - I knew It was a light Press fit, but it was too light.
Fortunately It did not do any real damage, just was not supporting the input shaft correctly and was running against the clutch disc. I put it back in the proper place and used some Red Loctite 242 to hopefully hold it in place properly.
I figured this was a good time to make the switch to a hydraulic throwout bearing and get rid of the bulky clutch linkage, Z bar, clutch fork and other associated rods. I had already spent some considerable time reengineering the linkage and reinforcing the Z bar and other parts of the linkage to make it Skookum as Frig, but I was unhappy with how much flex there was in the dash with the clutch pedal pressed down, hopefully this will be better.
Because the Transmission is T5/Ford Parts are readily available and ubiquitous.. Not Something I am accustomed to with Slant 6's and Early Non B/E Body Mopars.
Hydraulic TOB - I used A Tilton 60-6104 - Literature says it's for a Diaphragm Pressure Plate, But it seems to work fine with the 3 Finger one as well. It has a little "finger stick" that replaces one of the input bearing retainer bolts.. this stick is used to keep the bearing body from spinning, some of the hydro TOB's I investigated just used the supply and feed lines for the anti rotation. - This method seemed like a better engineered idea to me.
I am actuating it with a Wilwood GS Compact Master Cylinder 260-15098. They make these in a variety of bore sizes and intergal as well as remote reservoir versions.
Made up some quick mounts and firewall reinforcement plates from scrap metal.
To get somewhat decent geometry to actuate the new clutch master I welded another actuator "nub" on the clutch pedal below the original one. If I ever need to revert back to the linkage and rod system I could do so without much trouble.
I had a helper at the shop help with a bit of the install.
Done, with a pedal stop added on the floor.
Clutch cylinder tucks in nicely next to the brake master, with just enough room to spin the cap off for fluid checks and fill.