Overheating 360 new engine

72Blu.
Post #77.
I understand thermal efficiency just fine, thanks. You do not. Waaaaaaay back in this thread that for reasons unknown, I noted the OPs engine runs hot. His engine is not the only engine that runs hot for unknown or non-obvious reasons. I offered some reasons for that, such as internal friction. Whatever! The OP has tried all the common fixes, still runs hot.

So now OP has two options: strip the engine to try & find the problem. Or, improve cooling so that it runs cooler. OP has chosen the latter.

You claim your fans pass 5000 cfm. Do you have any evidence of that? Your fans also have S blades which pull less air than straight blades.

This engine is going to need more air flow, more coolant volume, bigger radiator. These three factors are what will cool the engine. Either one on it's own or a combination.

No other engine that runs hot for non-obvious reasons is relevant here. Lots of engines using mechanical fans run hot for non-obvious reasons. Internal friction is probably the last relevant option that should be considered, once everything else has already been ruled out.

The OP has NOT tried ALL the common fixes. We have no idea what water pump he's running or how many vanes it has. We have no idea what CFM his electric fans are putting out either, and since his problem is one primarily at idle the fan CFM is extremely relevant. We do know the fans have no shroud, so, even if they had a decent CFM rating that can't pull air across the entire core.

There is absolutely no reason to "strip the engine" at this point. Heck, we don't even know what size his radiator is, Champion makes 22" and 26" radiators in 2, 3 and even 4 cores for these cars so it could be anything. We barely know anything about this engine or cooling set up.

Yes, at one point I had a chart for the Contour fans showing they pulled ~3,000 cfm on the low setting and 5,000 cfm on the high setting. Who knows where that went. How about a redneck on youtube showing they'll pull 4,400 cfm with a sketchy harness and undersized wiring? good enough?


Where's the data showing the factory 7 blade fan will pull 6,000 cfm like you claim? And since it's RPM specific, lets see the CFM vs RPM graph please, because I want to see the idle RPM numbers.

Honestly, although I made the decision to run these fans based on the old data I had, the simple fact of the matter is they outperform the mechanical fan that they replaced, which is more than proof enough for me. If I can sit in stop and go traffic with an iron-headed 340 at 9.8:1 compression making 400+ hp when it's 110°F out and not overheat, well, that's good enough for me.

Here is a well explained video of how a proper cooling system works.

An opportunity to learn more things that a person may have overlooked from their first analysis of how a cooling system should work.



View attachment 1715992113

Notice how it shows the proper 180° operating temperature of the system, and how it is easily regulated.

☆☆☆☆☆

Wow, that's horribly basic.

And, oh, right, the thermostatic switch could trigger an electric fan just as easily and the whole thing would work exactly the same in the cute little animation. Well, except they'd have to add an alternator. And maybe consider that the whole thing was attached to a car moving at speed. Did I say horribly basic?