Overheating 360 new engine
I never run less than pump premium. The lower grades have way more fillers and detergents and junk. It’s not worth saving ten cents to run 87 for me. And I fill up wherever I want to. Don’t need a special brand or any other voodoo.
It was 11.27:1 (measured, not a guess) and it will be 11.77:1 or maybe a bit higher (again measured, not a guess) when it goes back together. I have to see where the quench is and how far out of the block the pistons are. And that’s on IRON HEADS. I’ve been barking for DECADES that an aluminum head doesn’t “need” more compression or an iron head doesn’t “need” less compression IF you know what you are doing AND you drive like a full retard.
I don’t do cranking compression because it doesn’t matter. It’s BULLSHIT. I’ve had engines rattle at 155 and never make a sound (or any other evidence of detonation) at 210 so I don’t measure it any more. There is ZERO correlation between what an engine shows on a compression gauge and detonation resistance.
I drive my car year round, in all weather unless it’s snowing. Elevation is 1000 feet, but again who cares? It’s what the density altitude is that matters. I can go sea level or below certain times of the year. Plus, I did this when I lived a sea level. More bullshit.
My advice is for people who don’t read magazines and who want a nice running, clean burning engine that makes power on pump gas. If you think it can’t be done YOU are WRONG. And your advice is shitty.
Beginning late January I’m going to do a series on high compression pump gas builds on my YouTube page so I don’t have to deal with forum bullshit, bubble gummers, whiz bangs in gym shirts and bull headed non learners.
Ill cover EVERY aspect of how to do it so when someone wants to build an engine and not give up power because of myths, legend, nonsense, old wives tales and other such propaganda.
There will be nay sayers but they still think the earth is flat and 9.8:1 on pump gas is the max.
I’ll say it again. 200 is TOO HOT for a perf pump gas build. 180 is the MAX. Simple as that. I have a PONTIAC 400 going on the pump in early November that is just under 10:1 and that’s going to run at 180.
The owner isn’t competent to do any more than that. I built him an engine for his ability and capability. So he gets 180, and NO HOTTER.
So what's "pump premium" there? Because you can only get 91 octane here, some places you can get 93 or 94.
Hey if you don't like cranking pressure then list the dynamic compression ratio. Something that shows whether or not the cam overlap is blowing off compression.
Altitude does effect the density altitude, which is why I asked. If you live in Denver vs sea level it matters.
If you think you're going to get less BS posting stuff on YouTube, well, you must not know much about YouTube...
I get it man, my build isn't perfect. If I did it again I would do it different, but that just further illustrates why you can't say the black and white, very specific advice you're giving will work for everyone. It won't. And that's ok, I'm sure your builds are awesome, but you didn't build my engine or the vast majority of engines that people run on this board.
What carb are you running? Im betting you have a hot manifold (heat crossover) and a very limited booster. If that’s the case then yes, you NEED the heat to vaporize the fuel. I do NOT build engines with heat in the manifold. EVER. So I account for that.
Like I’ve said, there is more to it than just running the compression up. You have to have a plan and follow it. If you run a low gain booster you need the heat. I don’t do that either. If I do, then 180 is where they run.
Holley Ultra 750 double pumper on a Edelbrock RPM Air Gap. Not a heated manifold, just the opposite.
72 blu, Post #111,
[ 1] This will be the second or third time I haver told you that the 6000+ cfm figure on a cooling website was many years ago, probably 20 or slightly more, & that that info has since been withdrawn. That is why it is no longer there.
[2] The Suzuki example was to show that despite the best efforts at fixing a problem, the cause was unable to be found. Since you imply the people involved were not smart enough to figuure it out, but you are smarter, maybe you should hop on a plane & help them out with your superior knowledge......
[3] If you read the Flex a lite website tips, they recommend a mech fan for towing, over elec fans. Since they sell both, they have nothing to gain pushing either option. A vehicle that tows is going to run hotter, which is the OPs problem, hence the same solution.
1- yes, I saw what you said the first time. And I don't believe you, because I've always seen the Chrysler mechanical fans rated in the 4 to 5k range for CFM. Saying over and over again it's 6k+ doesn't change that
2- Neat, still not relevant
3- The OP is overheating at idle, not towing. Totally different situation. And if the electric fans put out the same CFM, it doesn't matter.
Is that kinda like saying the only good electric fans are the POS Ford Contour setup that you constantly pimp? Asking for a friend.....
Not what I said. For a 26" radiator the Ford Contour set up works well and I suggest it because I know for a fact it works really well. A Lincoln Mark VIII fan supposedly pulls more CFM, that should fit a 26" radiator as well but the layout is a little different for clearance
For a 22" radiator the Ford Taurus fan works really well, guys have been using that one for years on all kinds of different body styles. The Chevy HHR also has a good electric fan set up that works with a 22" radiator, and there's a Mercedes that also has one that works for a 22" radiator. You can find threads will all of those fans here on FABO with a search.
You just have to make sure that you have a fan set up that can actually move enough CFM, all of those will pull 3,000 CFM or more.
Most guys run absolute junk 225 dollar radiators and Champion radiators falls into that category and NO high quality radiator that I have ever looked at is more than 2 cores. There are many on here and 1 in particular that I can't mention by name but Mr Ford Contour electric fans guy loves his POS 3 core Champion radiator....knowing that I can accurately come to a quick and educated conclusion.
Yeah, I know, you spent maximum cubic dollars on everything on your car. Congratulations. You also won't drive it more than 10 miles without putting it on a trailer, so I seriously doubt you actually know if your cooling system will be worth the money you paid for it when you're stuck in traffic when it's 110°F out.
I know, you'd never actually drive in those conditions, so we'll never know. But I've done it, so yeah, I'm super happy with my cheap *** Champion radiator and POS Ford Contour fans, even after like 35k miles. Your car will never have that many miles on it because you're too scared to drive it all the time, so we'll never know if yours is any better.