Port match intake/gaskets/heads or not

Also keep the roof and floor straight don't funnel the entrance. You could put it all together with intake gaskets partially glued 'to the heads only'...next set the intake on and using 4 end bolts...center it end to end as best you can 'centering all bolt holes'..then 'snug' it down...install the rest of the intake bolts and torque it down the 30 lbs from center outward 'I torque them by feel'...then take drill and a 1/8 inch bit..at the ends just outside the no.1,2,7,8 runners between intake bolts.."where there's no water'...drill a hole through the intake flange and into the head flange. You don't have to drill all the way through, just drill partially enough to hold a drill bit in other words.. because you're going to need three more eighth in drill bits ..and I let you know where I'm going with this...this is going to tell you when you take it apart where everything ends up ...the intake gasket when it shifts and settles during torque , , the head versus the intake alignment. 'Also why you align gasket n glue it to the head to start after port matching head to gasket size 1st.'
When you put it together after you port match everything and or do some intake end to end adjusting which isn't unheard of to align the common walls... you can use four 1/8-in drill bits to align the gasket to the intake & to the head just as it was when you had it torqued and it will go back together the same for sure. It makes it full proof and when you do your Port matching to the intake you use those 1/8-in drill bits to locate the gasket and use a little tape as well and go to town