Convince me to put a TKX in my Dart
Yeah I would definitely hold off judgement on the TKX until you see that upper crossmember actually installed. Even with just the solid 1/2" thick "U" upper it's gonna end up looking different than pictured in post #16. But I don't think that BHS578 is going to clear that upper box the way it's shown in the Holley picture, it's clearly meant to go over the shift plate in front of the shifter and behind that access cover. It doesn't look like it will do that in its current location.
To me, you're already buying or fabricating a new upper and lower crossmember, cutting the original crossmember, and cutting the tunnel. The tunnel work is easy, it's just sheet metal (literally was the easiest part of the T56 install). The crossmember work is a bit more difficult and a lot more important, and you're doing that regardless. Making the cuts a little wider on the crossmember is still cutting out a section of crossmember.
If you're worried about someone returning it to stock at some point, in either case I think a new floor pan and new torsion bar crossmember would be the easiest way.
I have more pictures of my T56 install here My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
And I thought I would point out that I made the tunnel larger than I had to, entirely for ease of access and install/removal. Most of the Frankenstein welding was actually because of the 4 speed conversion and the holes cut for that. And I still run an A-body console...
Yeah I would definitely hold off judgement on the TKX until you see that upper crossmember actually installed. Even with just the solid 1/2" thick "U" upper it's gonna end up looking different than pictured in post #16. But I don't think that BHS578 is going to clear that upper box the way it's shown in the Holley picture, it's clearly meant to go over the shift plate in front of the shifter and behind that access cover. It doesn't look like it will do that in its current location.
To me, you're already buying or fabricating a new upper and lower crossmember, cutting the original crossmember, and cutting the tunnel. The tunnel work is easy, it's just sheet metal (literally was the easiest part of the T56 install). The crossmember work is a bit more difficult and a lot more important, and you're doing that regardless. Making the cuts a little wider on the crossmember is still cutting out a section of crossmember.
If you're worried about someone returning it to stock at some point, in either case I think a new floor pan and new torsion bar crossmember would be the easiest way.
I have more pictures of my T56 install here My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
And I thought I would point out that I made the tunnel larger than I had to, entirely for ease of access and install/removal. Most of the Frankenstein welding was actually because of the 4 speed conversion and the holes cut for that. And I still run an A-body console...