572 RB Street motor advice?

Before I write about any "car stuff", I am sincerely sorry to hear about those who you have lost. I know of at least one person in my group of friends who was said to have died from COVID-19, but like so many, she had other health problems. You are resilient to be posting here, I encourage that, and I encourage you to continue your build pursuits. I am 60, and 2 years ago marked the 3rd year in a row that one of my friends since our teenage years died from cancer. Losing 3 friends in 3 years is a big part of the reason for me to stop "thinking and posting" about a stroker build, and getting on with doing it instead.
Apologies, I'm going to go into some detail as I don't post on FABO much.
For me, I have ONE bite at this apple, unless I have an unexpected windfall of money in the future, so I decided to do all I can with the short block at least, to where I would NEVER say "If only...." or "I wish I would have...." I am having to do this in "chunks" as money allows, and I'm blessed to have a builder and even parts providers who understand and have accommodated those limitations.
I started with the "new and improved" circa 2019 redesigned and newly released Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB block, the big bore option (4.49" to be finished at 4.50)
My builder recommended and I happily chose Molnar for the crank and rods, and although I had a 4.35" stroke in mind to reduce piston speed, for a 541, when my builder said the 4.50 stroke crank was the same price, the block accommodates that longer stroke without clearancing, and although I could have "gotten away with" a large diameter "hemi" internal oil pickup at 4.35, my builder said he'd recommend an external pickup for safety, we agreed and the forum backed up my decision to go for the 4.50" stroke...Besides, FIVE-SEVENTY-TWO sounds even more awesome than a 541. LOL.
Diamond pistons, and I'm having the rings gapped for up to a 350HP shot of nitrous because I may want to add spray, IF I get traction and everything else that comes with somewhere around 700 HP and Torque, and my builder swears no downside to the bit of extra gap if I never add N²O.
EDM oiling design Johnson solid roller lifters, the dual springs and hardware that comes with the top choice TF 270s. I wrote this before, but I don't mind repeating because I am 100% "all in" for the concept of and execution of the Valvetrain Geometry Correction technology that Michael Beachel at B3 Racing Engines describes in his 4 (hopefully #5 coming soon) Tech Papers. He is machining the kit per my cam specs, lash in particular, and he knows I'm using TrickFlow.
My builder had mentioned the 572-13 Indy heads, but nothing but a mention, and I looked up the B-1 heads.
I'm happy to see you got a lot of replies suggesting the TF 270s, as that was my choice.
My biggest initial problem once the 572 is in my Roadrunner? Probably going to be a lack of traction...at 50 mph, on the highway if I stomp the gas pedal, at least that is what I've read and heard, but I certainly hope to overcome that problem.
The reason why I am staying with my 3x2 setup starts with my Roadrunner being a real V-code, that "V" will always be in the VIN, and I want to "honor" that legacy. The Promax mods make tuning easier, and the open plenum of the ModMan means the 572 can draw air and fuel from all 3 carbs.
I have 2 complete Holley jet kits, so 4 jets of each size from the low 60s into the high 90s will cover all 3 carbs tuning for the new setup, and "leaving power on the table" is not something I'm worried about.