My version of a factory parts build 318
Your response is very educational and interesting. I'm sure that this has been asked millions of times, but if the builder already has a 318 and limited funding, what would be the best cylinder head for getting better performance from his 318? He's not looking to build a race car just something with a little extra zip. I suggested a 360, a rebuild able engine is like $400.
thing is, Dan, is there are a lot of ways to do this. If on a budget, why not follow some of the very simple recipe's already provided by members here. I did one myself called the "Low dollar 318". For less than 500 bucks (498 to be exact), I ran the same numbers as a factory '73 340 Duster with 3.21's (and I did it with 2.76's). And others have documented similar builds.
Dan, I’d reply pretty much what 318WR said.
“A little more zip.” Is a very broad and general term.
This is what I would do. First! Find out if the Duster owner is willing to use headers.
Second, use the step by step KISS program. This starts with the basic but of on parts and a cam last. The following is my suggestion to this process.
1st, are headers going to be used?
Ether way, headers or not, install a dual exhaust n the car with the muffler or choice. In a blind and broad decision here, use 2-1/2 exhaust pipe size. If you use headers, go with the sun I exhaust package. Relatively inexpensive and complete.
Works great!
2: A 4bbl. carb and intake. Again, in a blind choice, a RPM or Weiand Stealth with a 750 cfm carb of choice will be an excellent set up.
3: Upgrade the ignition system.
4: Camshaft swap. This has to work with the rear gears and the converter.
After this path is completed, the owner can decide if the next stall is needed. It comes as a toss up between an overdrive transmission or rear gears.
On cylinder heads, the stock ones, not matter which ones, can be rebuilt and given a competition valve job. That’s all that’s needed for a low lift cam under .500.