65amp wiring/trouble shooting
This is my best guess so far.
A Chrysler fuseable link that was black IIRC is 12 gage. That would protect the 8 gage wires. In theory anyway.
In which case I'm surprised there is not a 16 gage fusible link protecting the 12 gage wires.
At least visually, the multiconnector on the fire wall looks good in the photos.
Other connection that often develop resistance over time are:
Column connector - especially the J1 power feed in it. But also check J2.
Engine harness connector.
At least do a visual check on them first.
Then since everything is running. Maybe the next best step is to do a test for voltage drop between the alternator and the regulator.
Same as described earlier in the thread.
With the engine running, note at the same time:
How much the battery is charging (ammeter reading)
Voltage at the alternator output
Voltage at the blue field wire if safely accessible
Voltage at the engine harness connector if it can be back probed
Voltage at blue wire at ballast resistor
Voltage at the battery.
Once the battery is recharged (ammeter needle straight up) repeat the measurements.
Then put a non-battery load on it, such as the headlights and heater fan, and repeat the measurements
Votlage should be the same at all points measured. If there is a voltage difference it will be due to resistance and be larger with loads. The problem will be along the current path from the alternator to the regulator.
A small difference under heavy load (like recharging the battery, or lights and heater fan on at the same time) is OK.
However your cars 65 amp wiring was intended to minimize that. The battery should never be subject to more than 15 Volts or it will cook itself.
This is my best guess so far.
A Chrysler fuseable link that was black IIRC is 12 gage. That would protect the 8 gage wires. In theory anyway.
In which case I'm surprised there is not a 16 gage fusible link protecting the 12 gage wires.
At least visually, the multiconnector on the fire wall looks good in the photos.
Other connection that often develop resistance over time are:
Column connector - especially the J1 power feed in it. But also check J2.
Engine harness connector.
At least do a visual check on them first.
Then since everything is running. Maybe the next best step is to do a test for voltage drop between the alternator and the regulator.
Same as described earlier in the thread.
With the engine running, note at the same time:
How much the battery is charging (ammeter reading)
Voltage at the alternator output
Voltage at the blue field wire if safely accessible
Voltage at the engine harness connector if it can be back probed
Voltage at blue wire at ballast resistor
Voltage at the battery.
Once the battery is recharged (ammeter needle straight up) repeat the measurements.
Then put a non-battery load on it, such as the headlights and heater fan, and repeat the measurements
Votlage should be the same at all points measured. If there is a voltage difference it will be due to resistance and be larger with loads. The problem will be along the current path from the alternator to the regulator.
A small difference under heavy load (like recharging the battery, or lights and heater fan on at the same time) is OK.
However your cars 65 amp wiring was intended to minimize that. The battery should never be subject to more than 15 Volts or it will cook itself.