New Small Block Headers
Previous years I (randomly,ignorantly) bought hooker headers ($200 every time) multiple times for my Mopars. I tried to install these used hookers (I believe they were super comp with the removable slip tube) but they interfered with the steering linkage. I used a different set of hookers but had to remove the steering linkage (the center link which attached to the pitman arm) and route one runner (I believe, memory fuzzy) below the steering linakage.
Question:
Did I use an a body set in my installation? (no part numbers seen/witnessed, purchased used) or do they have generic applications?
Do you have part numbers for either?
Does anybody know what hookers fit (or best headers for) FMJ bodies? 73-75 b-bodies, A bodies for anyone reading this years later. Please and thank you!
Also while I am wishing, the header part numbers for W2's in an A body...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND CONSIDERATION!!!!!!
from lead69:
Are these only A bodies headers? FMJ's?
To any future newbies considering header installation:
The ones I put into my 73 RR were difficult, but not too bad:
I brought an engine hoist to the front of the car, attached it to the 340 with the engine tilting attachment to the hoist. I was able to rock/tilt the engine left or right once attached.
I don't believe I disconnected the engine mounts, I loosened the bolts that they sat on?.
I did not disconnect the transmission or any of the drive train. I cut the old exhaust off. unbolted the exhaust manifolds, removed them.
One may have come up and out, i think one dropped down. fuzzy memory
I lifted the front of the car onto taller truck jack stands which sit higher than the rear of the car which was on regular car jacks.
this allowed me to work from the underside of the vehicle from ease. I always have a stack of wood on both sides of under the car for jack failure. It will save your life if a jack stand fails, gets knocked over some how. Don't put jack stands on dirt. I have had a friend dump his drink on the ground and the car sank to the dirt instantly. Don't sit your car on cinder blocks, they can shatter.
I used the engine hoist to lift the disconnected (from the bolts the mounts sat on) engine up, and raised the engine until it hit the bottom of the firewall tunnel.
I raised the driver's side header in from below. I am not sure if i did the same on the passenger side but it was much easier. I have power steering on this b body
On the headers I used, I had to disconnect the steering linkage ('Center Link')to the pitman arm. Don't for get to re-install the cotter pins on the castle nuts when you re-install everything.
I believe that I had the steering wheel turned (?Left) all the way before I disconnected the linkage. I DID turn the wheel back some before re installation even though throws everything off a bit. It wasn't hard to pull everything back together.
Studs on the forward/front most exhaust manifold bolt holes helps hold the headers while you fumble around screwing the bolts in. I used bolts (that had a hex allen screw hole inserted into the top of the bolts) for two of the tight exhaust bolts on both sides of the engine. (four bolts total tightened with hex allen keys for the tight fit exhaust bolt locations{tight because it's RIGHT UP ON THE HEADER PIPE, TOO TIGHT}) I recommend PREMIUM exhaust gaskets, some people like copper gaskets in order to help with leaks.
Personally, I think these four allen key bolts are better than just using only studs.
Reassembly was reverse of the disassembly and TTi taught me that if you are installing an exhaust kit, create/begin the installation from the rear of the car which to me was counterintuitive to beginning from the fixed point of the headers under the (Front of the) car.
<LE$$ Buck$> I cannot remember which auto parts store, either autozone or advance auto sells exhaust with bent pieces that are mandrel bent (without ripples) at very cheap prices where someone can piece part their entire exhaust if they want without spending thousands of dollars on a kit. Make sure you clamp the slide-on points of the exhaust or have it welded upon completed assembly in order to avoid breathing carbon monoxide in your ride when stopped, etc.
The header installation was tedious, but not frustrating following that procedure. I changed the starter (to the smaller magnum starter) and installed an oil filter adapter during the installation because I had the room-two birds with one stone.
These are the headers I installed more or less:
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner:
These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner:
I had to fix a coolant leak and replace pulleys on my 73 road runner. I decided to put headers on my car while it was in my grandfather's shop.
Previous years I (randomly,ignorantly) bought hooker headers ($200 every time) multiple times for my Mopars. I tried to install these used hookers (I believe they were super comp with the removable slip tube) but they interfered with the steering linkage. I used a different set of hookers but had to remove the steering linkage (the center link which attached to the pitman arm) and route one runner (I believe, memory fuzzy) below the steering linakage.
Question:
Did I use an a body set in my installation? (no part numbers seen/witnessed, purchased used) or do they have generic applications?
Do you have part numbers for either?
Does anybody know what hookers fit (or best headers for) FMJ bodies? 73-75 b-bodies, A bodies for anyone reading this years later. Please and thank you!
Also while I am wishing, the header part numbers for W2's in an A body...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND CONSIDERATION!!!!!!
from lead69:
..."hooker 5303 1 7/8 slip tubes for A and E body small blocks..."...
Are these only A bodies headers? FMJ's?
To any future newbies considering header installation:
The ones I put into my 73 RR were difficult, but not too bad:
I brought an engine hoist to the front of the car, attached it to the 340 with the engine tilting attachment to the hoist. I was able to rock/tilt the engine left or right once attached.
I don't believe I disconnected the engine mounts, I loosened the bolts that they sat on?.
I did not disconnect the transmission or any of the drive train. I cut the old exhaust off. unbolted the exhaust manifolds, removed them.
One may have come up and out, i think one dropped down. fuzzy memory
I lifted the front of the car onto taller truck jack stands which sit higher than the rear of the car which was on regular car jacks.
this allowed me to work from the underside of the vehicle from ease. I always have a stack of wood on both sides of under the car for jack failure. It will save your life if a jack stand fails, gets knocked over some how. Don't put jack stands on dirt. I have had a friend dump his drink on the ground and the car sank to the dirt instantly. Don't sit your car on cinder blocks, they can shatter.
I used the engine hoist to lift the disconnected (from the bolts the mounts sat on) engine up, and raised the engine until it hit the bottom of the firewall tunnel.
I raised the driver's side header in from below. I am not sure if i did the same on the passenger side but it was much easier. I have power steering on this b body
On the headers I used, I had to disconnect the steering linkage ('Center Link')to the pitman arm. Don't for get to re-install the cotter pins on the castle nuts when you re-install everything.
I believe that I had the steering wheel turned (?Left) all the way before I disconnected the linkage. I DID turn the wheel back some before re installation even though throws everything off a bit. It wasn't hard to pull everything back together.
Studs on the forward/front most exhaust manifold bolt holes helps hold the headers while you fumble around screwing the bolts in. I used bolts (that had a hex allen screw hole inserted into the top of the bolts) for two of the tight exhaust bolts on both sides of the engine. (four bolts total tightened with hex allen keys for the tight fit exhaust bolt locations{tight because it's RIGHT UP ON THE HEADER PIPE, TOO TIGHT}) I recommend PREMIUM exhaust gaskets, some people like copper gaskets in order to help with leaks.
Personally, I think these four allen key bolts are better than just using only studs.
Reassembly was reverse of the disassembly and TTi taught me that if you are installing an exhaust kit, create/begin the installation from the rear of the car which to me was counterintuitive to beginning from the fixed point of the headers under the (Front of the) car.
<LE$$ Buck$> I cannot remember which auto parts store, either autozone or advance auto sells exhaust with bent pieces that are mandrel bent (without ripples) at very cheap prices where someone can piece part their entire exhaust if they want without spending thousands of dollars on a kit. Make sure you clamp the slide-on points of the exhaust or have it welded upon completed assembly in order to avoid breathing carbon monoxide in your ride when stopped, etc.
The header installation was tedious, but not frustrating following that procedure. I changed the starter (to the smaller magnum starter) and installed an oil filter adapter during the installation because I had the room-two birds with one stone.
These are the headers I installed more or less:
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner:
These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner: