833 OD sticking in 4th, chipped synchro

And that just leaves #1

If you have the matching later style cover with the scissor-type interlock, that style cannot be over-shifted at the cover. But the overshift occurs on the adjacent gear when the brass on it sits too low on the cone.
So then on an overdrive A833, when you shift into Direct gear, the slider only can go so far. but the brass can flop around between the cone and the struts. The only thing that holds he struts in place is the energizer springs. So if they are weak, the struts can move too far towards the Input gear, and then the back ends pop out. Once out, they don't like to pop back in by themselves, so now you are stuck in Direct gear.
The proper solution to this is a triple whammy.
1) install a brass that sits higher on the cone, and
2) pop the energizer springs out, and stretch them out a bit to put more pressure on the struts, and reinstall with the ends offset from the other side, and
3) move the input gear as far back as is possible. This starts with the big snapring on the bearing. The one that comes on the bearing from new, is the wrong one. You gotta use the factory original one. They are different thicknesses, and if you install the fat one, with just one gasket, the retainer usually gets broken during the install. But worse is that the fat boy pulls the input gear forward out of the trans by the difference in the thicknesses.
Next is the smaller snapring, which are select fit. By the book, you have to drive the bearing as far back as it goes then install the fattest ring that fits. I find it helpful, to instead, install the thinnest snapring, drive the bearing into it, then measure/install shims between the input gear face and the backside of the bearing, which will move the input towards the slider hub, which will stop the brass from moving too far forward, which will keep the struts inside the slider, which will prevent the back-ends from popping up and getting stuck, which will prevent the slider from retracting, which, when it happens almost always leaves you stuck in direct.

BTW,
when you manually move the slider into direct and slam it into the clutch teeth, that slider is always too far forward. The cover, in good shape, NEVER shifts it that far....... unless someone installed all the wrong bolts in it. As to cover bolts; All but the bottom two have shoulders on them. And two of the shouldered bolts go in specific locations that are deeper in the trans case to receive the shoulders. This positively locates the cover, which positively locates the fork, and thus, the slider........... unless the fork is worn.
The fork only wears when you have to hold the trans in gear because it wants to pop out, usually on deceleration. When that happens, you gotta fix the clutch-teeth and the fork, and the slider points AND most importantly, back cut the offending teeth.
In the pic you provided, I assume the gear we are looking at is the overdrive gear. The clutch teeth on it are pretty banged up, which I don't often see on the overdrive-gear. If it was mine, I would re-point them and the slider. And any other gears that look like that. That rarely happens to an overdrive gear, because the speed-match is pretty small at 60/65mph, and nobody speedshifts into it. Usually, those teeth are pristine. But in your case with a slanty, it's not a big deal to leave them like that.