833 OD sticking in 4th, chipped synchro

When I rebuild an A833, with good used brass;
I grab the gear with the least-worn brake-cone, and fit every brass to it. I select the highest-sitting ring and install it on the input gear, for this very reason, namely to prevent overshift..
The next highest goes to the hardest-working gear, usually second
The lowest sitting ring goes on First, cuz it works the least hard, unless the driver is known to downshift hard into it, then the lowest goes to Third.

In this way, I get 100,000 miles out of a set, or more. Except maybe Second.Yes, I have, been driving A833s since 1970, lol. I wore out a lot of Second-gear brass. The last time I pulled mine out, I set a new personal best time of 17 minutes. And I coulddabin faster, cuz I wasn't actually "racing", and the time includes unbolting the GVod, and the front section of the 3" dual exhaust. But I must admit, I used a 4-post lift.lol. and my unit is all alloy so weighs about 85 pounds so no jack was required.
BTW-1
when installing "new" brass rings, you gotta check every one of them as to concentricity with the cones. I have had quite a few come to me that were oval, and when installed like that, it creates shifting problems. Yes, they can be straightened, I used to do it all the time. Oval rings sit too high and rock on the cones.
BTW-2
The back bearings on some A833s is specific to it. The off-the-shelf bearing does not fill the receiving cavity in the tail because it is too narrow. and by quite a bit. This allows the mainshaft to move backwards towards the rear end, and all hell breaks loose, lol.. IIRC, this is in the B/E tails with the bigger 308type bearings.