833 OD sticking in 4th, chipped synchro
It's like the slider wants to go inboard on that shift.
Or like the od gear is trying to kick it out.
Or possibly before the last rebuild it was in the other way .....
no matter, if it ain't obviously worn, she's good to go.
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BTWs (chit-chat)
> when the forks do get worn, you can bet it's because the gear is trying to push the slider into Neutral. You gotta fix that asap. The clutch teeth are easy to back-cut at a small angle with a Dremel-type die grinder, the slider is a bit more difficult. But since I bought my first synchronizer assy back in about '72 I've been fixing them no problem. As for worn forks, I just stick some hard brass on there. I don't replace forks unless they are broken, and I have not yet broken a steel one,
>I like the old style cover better, but the new-style brass better, as they don't break for me: as to forks no opinion.
>I'm gonna guess that most shifting problems start with a loose external shift levers and/or loose adapter plate. I loc-tite the cavities between the levers and the studs, and loc-tite the nuts. But you gotta Not get loc-tite between the studs and the cover, lol, cuz then it wont shift at all ......
> yeah, I loc-tite the adapter-plates as well.
> I have a long-tail in my Barracuda, with the shifter relocated some 9 inches to the rear, between the buckets, on a custom adapter I whipped up. I raised the thing high enough to install the top bolt from inside the car. I haven't missed a shift since 2004, and I am using a Mr.Gasket Bang shifter (circa 1972) which is maybe 9 inches tall.... I really like it. The long tail was required to install a GVod unit.
> With the manual trans, and a regular Hurst Shifter in the factory location; I recommend a rev-limiter ............. cuz seeing the shift needle coming down from 8000 is a little nerve-racking......
If this happens to you .....Do NOT put the clutch in! Cuz;
If the lifters are pumped up, the engine will stall for lack of compression and will not restart until the lifters bleed down, which could take days. If your lifters get pumped up, keep the revs as low as you can without stalling, and just wait for the engine to smooth out as the lifters bleed down. If it won't smooth out, you can bet the valves are bent from hitting the pistons.
For this reason, I installed adjustable valve gear and run only 1/2 turn preload. Well that and 8000 rpm springs, lol. I usually shift at 7000/7200; but to do that more than once or twice, your engine needs to have some oiling mods done to help the rod bearings live.
>Your cam, if 250*@.050 will power peak around 5600, and want to be shifted around 6200 for max average power during a run; but with worked heads, they may hang on to say 6500. I only shift mine at 7000 because; Firstly, it goes there lol (I never had a SBM that lived up there before), and secondly, cuz thru dual full-length 3" pipes and dynomax muffs, the sound is horribly addicting. I just wanna do it over and over and over ........., and Thirdly cuz in First-over (I use the GVod as a gear-splitter) with 3.55s; 65mph is ~6900; but in Second gear is just ~5500. Guess which gear I use/lol.
> your car, with a 250* cam is gonna need some serious rubber in the back, in an effort to keep from wiping out around town, in turns going to WOT......unless you choke the engine with a tiny 4bbl, I guess. If you like to drift the back out, under control, 295s are not too big. Well heck; just about any cam in a hi-compression 360, is gonna be a handful at WOT with the steering-wheel Not straight ahead,lol. In that respect, the 8/1 360 is a lot more forgiving, it doesn't snap to it as radically, giving your reflexes a break; you can drive it with a hangover, the next morning. At 11.3 Scr, you gotta stay sharp, especially with skinny tires.
> Ok that's enough chit-chat for now.