Carburetor linkage Questions for 67 Dart
So this is gonna blow yer mind! This carb is based on the Carter AFB. To the right and left of the rear throttle plates is a counter weight that resists the back barrels from opening:
This is not a mechanical secondary carb. Rear barrels are opened on engine demand at higher RPMs
get your finger on the top of the counterweight and pull toward the front of the carb and you can open by hand
WOT is achieved by the front butterflies being straight up and down. This same situation is true of a vacuum secondary carb. There are also no accelerator pumps in the back barrels, like on a Holley double pumper so you can't expect to see a gas shot in the back barrels. This whole mechanism is why it is hard to "overcarburate" with these carbs - the back barrels only open based on engine demand and I don't think you can even rev the motor in Park or neutral enough to see them work because there is no load on the engine like when in gear.
As mentioned before the kick down system can keep you from adjusting this correctly.
Disconnect the kickdown arm at the throttle stud.
Adjust the cable (you need a partner in the car to floor the pedal) so that blades are straight up with the pedal floored.
The next step is alot easier if the car is up in the air like on 4 good jackstands.
Get your lovely assistant to lie under the car while you work the disconnected kick down from on top so that they can see how it works and then get them to work it back and forth for its whole range of motion.
The trick is to get the kickdown linkage to be all the way actuated with the throttle wide open. I don't understand how your system adjusts so figure that out, have your assistant hold the trans end of things all the way open and adjust the kickdown linkage so that at WOT the throttle stud, at the back of the slot against the spring, is holding the mechanism at the trans wide open.
THIS is the starting point.
Take the car out and make sure the trans kicks down when you floor it. Try it at multiple rolling speeds (10mph, 20, 30, 40).
Then launch it at 10 mph and see where the car shifts to the next gear on your tach. If it starts to rev too high let off!
If needed, back off the adjustment for the kick down so it shifts where you want it to. Remember this is what you are driving around on. If you go drag racing you can shift by hand and keep the car in the gear until the max RPM you are willing to risk. For example, if I had a street motor that I built for a 6000 rpm Max, I'd set the kick down to max out at 5500 or even 5000 for the street to protect my motor.
If some of this is unclear ask questions and we'll try to post more photos to explain.
So this is gonna blow yer mind! This carb is based on the Carter AFB. To the right and left of the rear throttle plates is a counter weight that resists the back barrels from opening:
This is not a mechanical secondary carb. Rear barrels are opened on engine demand at higher RPMs
get your finger on the top of the counterweight and pull toward the front of the carb and you can open by hand
WOT is achieved by the front butterflies being straight up and down. This same situation is true of a vacuum secondary carb. There are also no accelerator pumps in the back barrels, like on a Holley double pumper so you can't expect to see a gas shot in the back barrels. This whole mechanism is why it is hard to "overcarburate" with these carbs - the back barrels only open based on engine demand and I don't think you can even rev the motor in Park or neutral enough to see them work because there is no load on the engine like when in gear.
As mentioned before the kick down system can keep you from adjusting this correctly.
Disconnect the kickdown arm at the throttle stud.
Adjust the cable (you need a partner in the car to floor the pedal) so that blades are straight up with the pedal floored.
The next step is alot easier if the car is up in the air like on 4 good jackstands.
Get your lovely assistant to lie under the car while you work the disconnected kick down from on top so that they can see how it works and then get them to work it back and forth for its whole range of motion.
The trick is to get the kickdown linkage to be all the way actuated with the throttle wide open. I don't understand how your system adjusts so figure that out, have your assistant hold the trans end of things all the way open and adjust the kickdown linkage so that at WOT the throttle stud, at the back of the slot against the spring, is holding the mechanism at the trans wide open.
THIS is the starting point.
Take the car out and make sure the trans kicks down when you floor it. Try it at multiple rolling speeds (10mph, 20, 30, 40).
Then launch it at 10 mph and see where the car shifts to the next gear on your tach. If it starts to rev too high let off!
If needed, back off the adjustment for the kick down so it shifts where you want it to. Remember this is what you are driving around on. If you go drag racing you can shift by hand and keep the car in the gear until the max RPM you are willing to risk. For example, if I had a street motor that I built for a 6000 rpm Max, I'd set the kick down to max out at 5500 or even 5000 for the street to protect my motor.
If some of this is unclear ask questions and we'll try to post more photos to explain.