Top replacement?
An adjustable frame jig is definitely the way to go. If I’d known I was going to have to do this much work I might have built one. Then again, if I’d known that, I would probably bought a different car. too late now. Some pictures attached of how I did it. My car had mostly old rust repair damage, poorly done. Interestingly enough, the distance between the passenger side spring perches was 3/16” short - from the factory. When I replaced the part of the driver’s side sub-frame I built it to factory spec. I plan to shim the passenger side rear spring hangar to make up the difference when I’m done. It was probably just luck, but when I got everything back together it was still straight and square, and met the specs on the factory frame chart. Thanks again for your advice.
An adjustable frame jig is definitely the way to go. If I’d known I was going to have to do this much work I might have built one. Then again, if I’d known that, I would probably bought a different car. too late now. Some pictures attached of how I did it. My car had mostly old rust repair damage, poorly done. Interestingly enough, the distance between the passenger side spring perches was 3/16” short - from the factory. When I replaced the part of the driver’s side sub-frame I built it to factory spec. I plan to shim the passenger side rear spring hangar to make up the difference when I’m done. It was probably just luck, but when I got everything back together it was still straight and square, and met the specs on the factory frame chart. Thanks again for your advice.
