That does not matter. This is because of the ignition switch itself. The switch drops power output from the "run" contact as well as the accessory contact when twisted to start. There are two contacts "live" in the start position. One of course is "start" (normally yellow) and the other is IGN2, the normally brown bypass circuit. There are only 4 ways to deal with this that I know of.....
1....If you have both wires extended, connect IGN1 and IGN2
2....If not, connect the contacts together right at the switch
3....Use some sort of trick diodes/ relay lash up
4.....If you have a hotrod or other swap, use a different type ignition switch such as a so called "universal" switch.