I did similar for UCA, using Moog offset bushings to move fwd pivot as far out as possible, and aft pivot as far inward as possible. You are trying to move the upper ball joint as far aft as possible to realize more caster, as needed for radial tires. That is where a line thru the two ball-joints projects to the asphalt, in front of the tire patch (tire flexes backwards while driving), i.e. the "shopping-cart effect" so the tires tend to follow vehicle motion. 67Dart273 said, "easy to measure caster" with no special tools, but I don't know how, though don't worry since just setting max possible for factory UCA's. I read the sheet for the special DECO bubble-level tool, which would work, but little value for me since I just go for max caster. I disagree with their statement that toe-in causes tire scuff "when cornering". It causes excessive tire wear when driving straight too, especially on the inner tread, like the pigeon-toed "snow plow" used to brake when snow skiing.
With settings above, you have no adjustment left for camber, which is how much the top of the tire leans in (negative camber). To get more adjustment, you need after-market tubular UCA's with adjustable Heim joints. I accept whatever camber results since the factory spec'd slight positive camber, which looks strange today (tops of tires leaning outward). That might have been specific to bias tires. You see tuners today with the tires leaning greatly inward (negative), some even using special rounded tires like a motorcycle to match. I measure camber by holding a 4 ft level horizontal beside the tire and measuring from it to the top and bottom of the wheel rim (not tire since squashed out at bottom) and subtract. I'm happy with perfectly vertical tires (0 deg) or slight lean-in (~1/8").
Unless a track racer, you probably won't notice the camber setting. I say that because after our minivan was hit on the front side so the front left was leaning in way too much even with a new strut (~1" lean-in). I drove it like that for 6 months until insurance finished dragging their feet. It drove perfectly straight w/ hands off wheel on the freeway and I didn't even notice excessive inner tread wear. Later, I pushed the upper strut tower back, but still too much neg. camber (but much less than silly tuners).
Toe-in is most critical for tire wear and handling. Even slight toe-out while driving will cause the car to wander on the freeway. You want the fronts perfectly parallel while driving. With RWD, the fronts rotate back slightly when driving, so set slight toe-in to match. My 1985 M-B RWD manual spec's a spring-loaded rod for dealers to push the fwd side of the two fronts apart to take out play, so specs tight (~1/16" toe-in). If all your parts are new and tight, you could use that, otherwise 1/8" toe-in a common spec. That implies using a tape measure across the fwd then aft sides of the two tires (track width), as I do. Easiest if your tires have straight channels. Also implies measuring mid-height, which you can't reach on aft side with stuff hanging down, so I go as high as I can and match that on the front, proportioning down the spec (if can go only halfway up to midpoint, use half the spec, I know an arc isn't linear so use the sine function if fussy). I've tried taping the tape measure to the tire, which can work w/ Gorilla Tape, but better to use wifey to hold the end tight against the tread channel (she's trained now).
Don't get the bright idea to jack the body up so you can measure higher up on the tires on aft side. That is because toe-in changes with ride height. That is very important. I once tried to be a good boy by adjusting ride height in my 1969 Dart, per manual, raising it from the sagged height. We then wore out two new front tires in a 100 mile drive before I noticed that had greatly increased toe-in. It had handled fine. Thus, before any settings above, set ride height. People here recommend jacking the body to take weight off the torsion bars before screwing the adjusters, to avoid stripping the threads. More back and forth, but still much easier than Chevy/Ford guys fussing with coil springs. If you ignore that and strip your threads, I might have a spare set of T-bar adjusters at a great price ($500). My guess is true for most classic U.S. RWD cars and why people have long fussed that old cars drive poorly. Likely as the suspension sags, the fronts toe-out to cause wander.
Above is why you need a quickie method to verify toe-in every few years. I lie on my back to get down-there and hold a straight-edge along the front tire, as shown in post 41 to sight at the rear tire on that side. Easiest in my FWD vehicles which need slight toe-out (fronts pull to rotate toward toe-in while driving). I should sight the rear tire about 1" inward (first tread channel). For my RWD, I have wifey hold a ruler since the sightline should hit ~1" out from the rear tire. The sighting method only works if front and rear track widths are same, with same size tires on both (my vehicles). The sight method always well-matches my tape-measure method, and may even have better resolution. Often toe-in is so far off that you can just look at a vehicle in a parking lot from a distance to tell. The tape measure method is quite precise since I notice even 1/8" rotation of the tie rod adjuster, so doubt an alignment tech could do better. You need the tires on stacked slippy floor tiles, then drive the car around the block and check again, and also bounce up and down. That 2nd pass also lets you get the steering wheel perfectly straight, after thinking hard about which way each adjuster needs to turn.
Can a tech with a laser machine do better? Probably, but I have read stories of former alignment techs who said their coworkers (never them) would try to tap the mirrors around until the machine printed out an acceptable report, without actually adjusting anything on the car. If you go in, they likely won't have a 1960's car settings in their database so give them desired spec's. You can find a story online by Rick Ehrenberg of Mopar Action Magazine with suggested specs for different types of driving. Good luck and keep your eye on toe-in for your tires to last. The only time I've had a car pull hard to one side, it was due to the tires (verify by swapping L & R). In one case, it had worn thru to the steel belt on the inside tread (hard to see), so the wires were grabbing the asphalt to move the tire.