Highest Amp Alternator For a 72 Duster

A second power take off and relays as shown above are the best way. You don't need to alter the fusible link, bulkhead connections, or bypass the amp gauge to properly add accessories.
The parts used back when were sufficient and served their purpose ( keep high voltage and fire potential outside the cabin ). Modern vehicles with alternators hot enough to weld with are wired the same way. Only small gauge wires and light duty switches to signal the relays are found inside those cabins .
The modern stereo head units we put inside the cabin will run on the wiring our OEM radios used. You need only to look at the wire and fuses supplied with your aftermarket head unit to verify this.
Sir I appreciate the input,

My goal is to find the best of both worlds, or as close as is possible. I would like to leave the factory wiring, firewall connections etc and my electrical gauge stock.

And still add a few modern items like the stereo with sub and amps to power it. My plan was to run 4 gauge wire from the factory harness (I think the largest cable off the battery runs to the starter, so I planned to connect there, add a fuse or breaker and then run to the amps, 8 gauge each. I plan to use a relay tied to the original radio Pot to turn power on and off to the sub amp.

But I appreciate your point of leaving high load items under the hood, unfortunately power amps must stay dry so will need to be under the dash or in the trunk. Aside from this need what other suggestions would you have to achieve this?

Hopefully I don't need a significant alternator upgrade, but if I do maybe that will change what can happen as well and may require disconnecting the gauge etc.

Anyone's thoughts and experiences welcome.

Thanks