-64 Dart steering coupling
Early 340 A body manifolds will fit if you have manual steering, with some mild work.
I got mine when they were relatively cheap. I don't disagree with opinions above that the 68-70 versions, at least, aren't worth the money. In fact, I sold mine for enough money to buy a set of TTI's:
The 72-73 versions would be cheaper, and the center-outlet 71-73 passenger side would fit better. The driver's side, early or late, will likely hit the steering coupling, albeit lightly. Mine cleared if I removed the coupling cap. Later, I switched to a power steering column with manual steering adapter, which moved the coupling back far enough to clear completely. Went back to a manual steering column when I switched to TTI's, but I did shorten the steering column jacket so the rubber insulator on the end wouldn't butt up against a header tube.
The early A engine compartment was never designed for a V8. When the 273's came out, they were shoe-horned in, with a pretzel shaped driver's side manifold to clear the steering and a right angle turn at the end to shoot the exhaust straight out the back. The trick with any later manifolds (which won't have that 90 degree bend) is figuring out where to run the driver's side exhaust pipe. I ended up running mine between the torsion bar and the frame rail. Just enough room there for a 2.25 pipe.
Even the best driver's side 340 manifold is pretty restrictive. That's the advantage of the early Dakota manifolds over the 340 manifolds. The early (68-70) passenger side manifold flows better than any Dakota manifolds. But they are likely to hit the inner fender where it bulges out over one of the lower control arm bolts. On mine, I made clearance with a BFH, but the manifold still barely cleared when the motor was at rest, and I suspect touched the inner fender protrusion under power.
Above discussion is A body manifolds through 73 (and 74?). 71 and later E body manifolds, any similar manifolds used in later A's or other applications, won't fit an early A, as you've found out.
The TTI's fit really well, considering how tight the engine compartment is, but they cost $$$$$$$ and you will need to move some things around.
I've not tried the Dakota manifolds, and I'm guessing they are your best bet, just offering the above to give you some idea of the alternatives.
Early 340 A body manifolds will fit if you have manual steering, with some mild work.
I got mine when they were relatively cheap. I don't disagree with opinions above that the 68-70 versions, at least, aren't worth the money. In fact, I sold mine for enough money to buy a set of TTI's:
The 72-73 versions would be cheaper, and the center-outlet 71-73 passenger side would fit better. The driver's side, early or late, will likely hit the steering coupling, albeit lightly. Mine cleared if I removed the coupling cap. Later, I switched to a power steering column with manual steering adapter, which moved the coupling back far enough to clear completely. Went back to a manual steering column when I switched to TTI's, but I did shorten the steering column jacket so the rubber insulator on the end wouldn't butt up against a header tube.
The early A engine compartment was never designed for a V8. When the 273's came out, they were shoe-horned in, with a pretzel shaped driver's side manifold to clear the steering and a right angle turn at the end to shoot the exhaust straight out the back. The trick with any later manifolds (which won't have that 90 degree bend) is figuring out where to run the driver's side exhaust pipe. I ended up running mine between the torsion bar and the frame rail. Just enough room there for a 2.25 pipe.
Even the best driver's side 340 manifold is pretty restrictive. That's the advantage of the early Dakota manifolds over the 340 manifolds. The early (68-70) passenger side manifold flows better than any Dakota manifolds. But they are likely to hit the inner fender where it bulges out over one of the lower control arm bolts. On mine, I made clearance with a BFH, but the manifold still barely cleared when the motor was at rest, and I suspect touched the inner fender protrusion under power.
Above discussion is A body manifolds through 73 (and 74?). 71 and later E body manifolds, any similar manifolds used in later A's or other applications, won't fit an early A, as you've found out.
The TTI's fit really well, considering how tight the engine compartment is, but they cost $$$$$$$ and you will need to move some things around.
I've not tried the Dakota manifolds, and I'm guessing they are your best bet, just offering the above to give you some idea of the alternatives.