Hot ammeter
So I should not do the bypass of the bulk head connectors? Hopefully have time this weekend to check the wiring. Thanks to everyone for your input.
My biggest critisism of MAD's recommendations is how they reroute and join the alternator output to the battery feed.
They create a longer path with more connections; And power to run the car has to go through two fusible links.
Second, its a new car to you and us. We have no idea what a previous owner did to the wiring.
A. Find the likely source or sources of the problem.
* Some cars do seem to have had failures that may be due to their ammeter studs becoming loose in the connecting bar. More are damaged when subject to higher loads than the meter
or its connections can tolerate for more than brief periods of time. Depending on the model, the nuts holding the ring terminals may get loose, the studs press fit may get loose, etc. They are not all the same. My guess is that Redfish's observations about the leaks on some models/years contributes to a significant portion of electrical problems behind the dash.
* Examine the wiring to find any other locations that show signs of heat damage.
* Examine the wiring for modification. Did they add or splice anything in??
With that you will know much more about the failure, what got damaged and why.
B. Decide on a repair plan that addresses all of the damage and addresses the causes.