CYLINDER MACHINING QUESTION

Sorry, done this too many times and know it works. I have a Sunnen hone. If you have a block with little wear, and they don't wear even, you can straighten the taper and get them round with a good hone. I'm not talking dingle berry hone or cheap straight stone hone. How much do you think they leave after a bore to hone the final size and finish in a cylinder? Nothing wrong with new pistons, bore and hone. It is just time and money and yes, you should have a tighter fit. But I'm here to tell you I have, and have built engines for others, that run out fine with a short block that had .004 to .005 clearance, reusing pistons, and Speed Pro file to fit rings. I have three such short blocks I will be rebuilding this way. A 273, a 340 and a 318 magnum because they each have such little wear in the block. My engines have plenty of power and have yet to have one not run very good or last at least 200,000 miles. As a matter of fact, I've never had one die. I usually am swapping engines because I want to try something else or gas octane took a nose dive and I had to lower compression.
I'm not arguing against honning per se. Just don't agree with trying to hone several thousanths. Most of my engines are stock bore 100,000 engine, with a hone and re ring, and a plain cast ring. They don't push oil, and make good power, both with nitrous and/or turbo. But will they last 50-60 thousands miles? I doubt it.
PS: Are you talking about a Sunnen power hone, or the hand held Sunnen hone with the dial, that is used with a drill? I have the second type, and that would take a lot of time, and use up the stones, trying to take out more then about 1 thousanth.