Tuning my 360 la motor

Why 4.10s?
Because that cam power peaks around 5300 and with iron heads at 4300 ft elevation, that cam will have no bottom end, no matter what the crate-motor compression ratio is.
So then, to get off the line in a reasonable manner, without stalling or reving/sliping the clutch out, the 4.10s will help get you going.
You see;
as a streeter, you will be spending a lotta time in the speed zone of 25 to 35 mph. With 3.23s and 27s, this is;
In third; 1400>1970rpm
In Second:1930>2700
In First; 2675>3750
Do you see the problem?
The power doesn't even start until 4000 and with the modest cylinder pressure that you can typically run with iron heads, that engine is Not gonna be in a hurry to get going.
Listen,
I'm not pissing on your combo,
I'm telling you the truth.
At an Scr of 9.5, your pressure at 4350ft is expected to be a very modest 121psi. At 10.5 it is up to 141psi. At 11.5 it is predicted to make 160psi ..... finally a good number.
Now lets look what happens with 4.10s again from 25>35mph
In Third:1790>2500
In Second: 2450>3430
In First: 3400>4750 Here yago, this will power you thru the torque-peak, and should be lotsafun! Well it would be, if you have some decent pressure.
What's decent?
At 4350 ft elevation, I'd guess 155psi..... minimum. That would take an Scr of 11.2. and, At 4.02 x 3.58, that would take a maximum total chamber volume of; 72.3cc ...... you see the problem?
At the specs shown, the pistons are .037 down in the holes=7.7cc. add 5 for eyebrows, 8.6 for the .039 gasket, and this leaves only 51cc for the heads... Even if you mill the heads to 65cc and sub in an .028 gasket, yur total volume comes to 84.5cc which is an Scr of 9.38, which drives the pressure to just 127psi.
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so, since the engine is already assembled and installed, just drive it until you can't stand the 3.23s anymore. Don't do what I did , which was to try and force that cam to work with 3.55s
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As for the tune, here's a guess.
IMO that cam with 3.23s will not like much over 14 degrees initial timing; it will be just too hard to tune the idle-system to get rid of the low-rpm jumpiness. Your total timing will be about 34>36 degrees, but don't hurry it all in. That combo will like a Two-stage curve running about 28/30 at 2800/3000 rpm and then slowly bringing in the rest to be all-in, at say 3400/3600.
Don't forget to set the Transfer slots to about square to slightly taller than square. And the Vacuum advance is gonna take a bit of experimenting. My guess it is that it will like at least 20* for cruising with the 3.23s, but it might not like too much too early, on account of detonation.
I would run that beast on 87E10, on account of the lack of cylinder pressure; BUT, I wouldn't recommend that you start there. Play it safe and run a couple of tanks of best gas, until you get the low-speed timing worked out. My 367 liked some Idle-Air bypass with that. Mine liked one hole on the front side of each primary throttle blade, of no more than .078; It varies with cylinder pressure and timing, so start smaller and sneak up on it.
If you go too big, the idle-rpm will go up too high, at the previously mentioned T-slot exposure. With a clutch you can idle it up to 750/800, to help prevent stalling.
Now, I gotta tell you, when you get it set right, that cam will tick over at 550/600 in gear and pulling itself across the concrete parking lot. But mine required the timing to be pulled back to 5*BTDC, so as to lose the jumpiness caused by the very high cylinder pressure that I run.. The point is this: your car is a streeter, NOT a racecar, forget a locked out distributor. And forget that others run 20* at idle. Go ahead and try it for a week around town, and you'll see what I mean. Just so you know, I usually ran 12/14* with that cam.
The Important thing is to set the Transfer-slot exposure, then leave it there. Set the idle speed with timing. And set the idle-quality with Idle-Air bypass. When yur done, the mixture screws should be near to in the center of their working range. Make sure the WET fuel level is correct and stable; you can't tune if the fuel level is going up and down. My car ran a lil better with a 3/8s fuel supply hard-line.
Happy HotRodding.