Column shift, shift tube clocking question
You are 180 out per my 67 example.
You might have this he if it is 67 68?, it's for the back up light switch.
Replacement pins are not available so you might want to see about welding a nut on the hole to be able to screw a headless bolt into it after reassembly.
The green is an un compressed joint
Red is one that has been compressed
The length of the un compressed one is 12 - 3/8"
(The compressed one is 12")
Keep in mind this is off a 67 so your application might have a different dimension
Is yours completely apart?
I would love to see the parts where they were joined by the plastic.
As for a way to keep them together, you might look into a plastic screw that you can put into one of the holes on each side?
I have heard of people using epoxy to refill where the plastic is. Maybe oil up the metal so the epoxy does not stick to the metal but makes the locking tabs that hold it all together.
You are 180 out per my 67 example.
You might have this he if it is 67 68?, it's for the back up light switch.
Replacement pins are not available so you might want to see about welding a nut on the hole to be able to screw a headless bolt into it after reassembly.
The green is an un compressed joint
Red is one that has been compressed
The length of the un compressed one is 12 - 3/8"
(The compressed one is 12")
Keep in mind this is off a 67 so your application might have a different dimension
Is yours completely apart?
I would love to see the parts where they were joined by the plastic.
As for a way to keep them together, you might look into a plastic screw that you can put into one of the holes on each side?
I have heard of people using epoxy to refill where the plastic is. Maybe oil up the metal so the epoxy does not stick to the metal but makes the locking tabs that hold it all together.