AIR GAP INTAKE WORTH THE MONEY?
Hi Folks
I just watched a "Nick's Garage" episode where he built and dyno'd a mild '72 340, built to low 10's compression ratio (750 AVS), shooting for 350 to 360 HP. In the end, upgrading from a stock '72 iron intake to a new Air Gap, got him from 350 to 358 hp at around 5300 RPM. Do you guys really think that's worth the extra $$? I sure don't. Unless, of course, there is a cash purse to the winner.
Sorry Mods, this may be a "General Discussion" I'm not sure how to change it?
Without having read everything… here is my take on the intake and opinion.
Speed and power takes money. How thick your wallet is vs your desire to make more power is an individual issue. Also what one thinks is worthy. Then there is where you want the power to show up. Earlier or later in the rpm range.
The factory iron intake is a very good performer. A budget minded person should grab one of the factory intakes and have at it. The only draw back is weight. An other possible issue is if you have a spreadbore and/or a square bore. This goes for ether mismatch of intake and carb.
Best option is the early TQ intake and carb.
The RPM intakes will provide a wide range of increase of any previous intake from anyone. The range is rpm based.
In order to justify the expense, I can not convince anyone, I just let the numbers do the talking. But this also applies to any part being considered. There have been those that decided to stay with stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. Most state a few good reasons or no leaking headers, bent pipes from hanging low, ease of starter replacement, but, the longevity is a big factor as well.
The increase in a set of headers and there after a good exhaust system can be worth 25 hp, 20ft. Lbs. on a small block 340/360.
By the time you add up the header & exhaust cost, even done cheaply, the cost is pricey.
A price check on headers @ Summitracing shows:
$260 for a summit headers (recommended small tube header!)
$235 from Flowtech - (I never used them)
$466 for a summit exhaust kit,
$338 for a Summit exhaust kit-No mufflers
Cheap headers plus complete summit exhaust kit for a total of $701.
Now you’re reeling in your head I bet saying, “Crap! This over a grand!”
Between the two additions for that 1K plus you’re picking up over 40lbs. of torque and 40+ hp. Add a cam and lifter set for another 20/25 hp & TQ. And your now around that $1500 mark by the time you get gaskets and 3 oil changes in to break in the cam, change oil for a 1,000 miles and change it again.
Depending on parts selected, the power increases can vary a lot and in different rpm ranges depending on the cam selected. After all of this is said and done, you yourself have to weigh in on its worth.
Is the total gain of over 60 hp worth the $1800?
Many will say it depends on what it runs.
If this is the case, pay attention to some members here and a few YouTubers that do more with less.
@318willrun has shown some good tuning skills in getting lowly powered engines to run pretty good down the track and a visit to his forum posts or YouTube channel can help get a dead stock engine and car moving pretty good. Adding performance parts to go faster is your call. But a lot is based on the power sought and the goal at hand.
@RustyRatRod sticky post titled rustyratrods guide to hotrod bliss, Rob, myself and a host of others go through a lot of forgotten information and tips on general items and ways to enjoy hot rodding with longevity in mind as well as some inexpensive routes sometimes forgotten.
Much of this is a catch 22.
Not using the better intake, headed/exhaust system, camshaft while saving money won’t get you going faster, it’ll just save you money. Laying the piper is the only way sometimes. Only you can decide of the entrance fee is worth the ride. Only you can decide if less power is OK since it’s not always needed.
The RPM is a higher performing intake that IMO did not really show itself on Nicks build because there wasn’t a big need for it.
We have members here producing a good amount of power pushing there vehicles into the low 12’s and high 11’s with that intake.
While some will point out what others have done with a stock intake, they’re leaving a LOT of power on the table. If they’re leaving power on the table, they’re making up for it in other areas & maximizing their car to the best it can be in order to obtain what they’re doing. What the entails may not be what you want to do for a street ride.
Ops! Edit…
358 HP is not a lot of power and the rpm-ag is not being taxed. That won’t happen for another 200 or so HP.