Coolant flow

Once again, you're looking at this whole thing through the VERY narrow window of maximum power output on a dyno or at the drag strip. All of your examples are drag racing or dyno's, and it's why you're so dead set on this (and wrong for other applications).

I know you're well versed enough in building engines to know that max power output is not the only way you can tune. It would be very different from a maximum efficiency tune, for example. And you throw out "drivability" too, and for street drivability there will be very few engine builds where tuning for maximum power will actually give you the best drivability. Tuning for mid range torque, for example, vs maximum hp, would give you a much more street drivable car. And that's not gonna push the limits of detonation. For that matter, a lot of engines in these cars are no where near pushing the limits of detonation.

As I said before, drag racing is quite possibly the ONLY automotive motorsport that runs coolant temperatures below 180° or colder. There are much more exotic engines that don't do that which go A LOT more miles than any drag car or even most of the "street" cars discussed on this board.

And you can't just say this is limited to 50 year old engines, because I've seen you give this advice to guys with modern engine swaps. You're giving out advice that's good for the niche it belongs to, but is not necessarily correct for everyone that you're giving that advice to. There ARE disadvantages to running too cold. Just because you personally haven't seen it doesn't mean it's not true. You're not basing your advice on engines that are meant to go 100k+ miles. And yeah, most people don't drive these cars like that. But your advice is not absolute. It's a single way, out of MANY ways, to tune an engine.

I'm not gonna argue with you on this. I'm sure what you do works for how you build engines and how you drive. But it's simply not scientific truth that the way you do things is in fact best for all engines and all applications. For a drag car or a street/strip car, sure. For anything else, sorry, but no. Your experience in this, while valuable, is anecdotal.

But YOU are arguing. I drive my **** ON THE STREET. Just because YOU cant or won’t do something isn’t my problem.

Maybe you ought to drop your coolant temperature, retune your carb and ignition and then report back how shitty it runs. Or maybe how much better it runs. ON THE STREET.

Get the “racing” thing out of your head. That’s your mental road block.


I don’t think I’ve ever said for an EFI (junk you call “modern”) deal to drop the coolant temperature. If I have, it’s because of testing on STREET DRIVEN CARS close to two decades ago.