Ignition Fusible Link Blowing after Lean Burn Conversion
Weird thing to note as we thought it would be the same but positive side of the coil is reading battery voltage which is ~14.3 but negative side is ~17.
AFAIK something is wired wrong, or wrong for that Module, or that module is bad.
The (-) should be switching from ground to system voltage as the engine is running. Its the same as points opening and closing.
With the engine not running, it should be at system voltage and hte module is supposed to control the current (amount of electrons flowing through). If anything is to get too hot with the ignition on and engine not running, its the coil.
I tried using an Ohmmeter to test the voltage regulator based on a video I found but my numbers were no where close to the ones in that video.
That's probably the same wrong youtube information someone posted a while back.
If its this one
Your car has a shunted ammeter.
Use that and your handheld multimeter set to DC voltage to determine if the system is being regulated.
The ammeter shows current flowing in or out of the battery. It is scaled roughly 40 amps to 40 amps. Zero in the center.
It should show about 5 amps discharge during start or if you leave the key in run and the engine off.
Much more than that and something is wrong. Something downstream of the key switch is drawing too much current or there is a short.
Engine running, the ammeter should show battery charging after start up, then move to zero.
Measure the voltage at three locations: Across the battery, alternator output, and closest connection you can probe in the regulator's 'sensing' wire. The last is part of the same circuit that powers the alternator rotor, so the blue wire connection on the alternator can be used if nothing else is accessible.
All of those should be within a few tenths of the same voltage.
Furthermore, they should be between 14 and 15 Volts.
And, the votlage should be about the same at 700 rpm, as at fast idle and higher 1200 or 1800 rpm.
If the voltage follows the rpm, then the regulator is not working. That could be hte wiring or the regulator, but now you have narrowed the problem.
If the alternator is producing power above 15 Volts, then the equipment is going to draw more current.
This means the batterywill overcharge (you'll see this on the ammeter), bulbs may burn out quicker, and connections may overheat.