Coolant flow
sounds good to me, appropriate equipment to do the job you need it to do.
would be interested to know if your manifold heat crossover was blocked off of indeed deleted from the design you have..
its another area where the basic idea of HEAT BAD dicates many peoples actions without due consideration for what and when the car will be used and whether an effective pump shot is necessary from idle on a cold day . and yes i know fuel has changed and the range of percolation and heat soak issues that can cause.
it's a can of worms that i should not open further.. :)
Dave
I run an Eddy Air Gap, so, no heat crossover at all and the carb stays colder than on standard intake designs.
Hmmm…I can run mine at sub freezing temperatures with zero issues.
But you can’t do it so it doesn’t work. I get it. Maybe, just maybe you’re missing something on your carb tune.
Right, so if it works on your car everyone should make their car exactly like yours, but if it works on my car that's its a one off and no one should listen. Uh-huh, sure.
I will say this. If you weren’t running annular boosters that’s one issue. Plus I have no idea what intake manifold you use.
I run an Eddy Air Gap with a Holley 750 double pumper. Funny you think that matters now, but are happy to give blanket advice without knowing stuff like that. Application and components matter, which is why your "my way or the highway" take on this can be nothing but wrong. In certain applications you are right, but to lump the entire hobby into that way of tuning is just silly.
Cold(er) engine temperatures makes horsepower. Lots of us do it.
No sir, it's not that simple. Colder intake
air temperatures make horsepower. Making horsepower has very little to do with engine
coolant temperatures, except that intake manifolds gets hotter with the engine and that raises the intake air temperature. Which is why people run cold air boxes, air gap intakes, etc., and why those things work.
And it has nothing to do with “racing”. I can see now that’s your mental hurdle.
Keep giving up power. Don’t learn new things. This is clearly a blind spot for you.
I'm plenty willing to learn new things, but your take on this isn't "new" and your oversimplification of engine coolant temperature and performance is limiting your understanding. You've lumped engine coolant and air intake temperatures inseparably together, which is a mistake. Yes, you want your air charge to be as cold as possible. And yes, keeping your intake manifold colder helps with that. But air charge temperature depends on more than the intake manifold temperature, and even the intake manifold temperature isn't set solely by the coolant temperature. I'm sure you know that all the different components of the engine aren't always the same temperature. And yeah, if you get off the track and onto the street, extended operation means the intake manifold temperature is driven by a lot of different component temperatures. Your whole engine isn't operating at 160°, I'm sure you understand that. Your combustion temp is in the thousands, colder coolant isn't going to change that much at all. Your under hood engine temperature sure as hell isn't 160°, and changing your coolant temperature from 160° to 190° isn't going to change your under hood temperatures one single bit on a street car out on the road.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that IF you are down on compression (relative to your cam timing) you can run the engine into detonation because the fuel (or enough of the fuel) isn’t vaporized and you end up with lean spots in the chamber.
I guess I need to do a video (or several) to explain how to drop the coolant temperature and make more power. I can talk 10,000 times faster than I can type.
You don't need to do a video. There are literally hundreds and hundreds of books on thermodynamics in general and even just on the thermodynamics of internal combustions engines already, that were written by more intelligent people than both of us, that already explain all of this very clearly. Engine coolant temperature is just a single variable in making more power, and it's no where near the most important one.
If you legitimately think you can improve the tune on my engine to make more power AND maintain drivability, you can PM me and I'll be happy to give you all the details of my build and tuning. But since I've suggested that to you before and heard crickets in response, I won't be holding my breath.
