Coolant flow
Alright, last time around for me.
Go do some research. Youtube is FULL of coolant temperature tests. Go watch them.
YouTube is not research. It never has been, it never will be. It’s entertaining, it occasionally has decent info, but for every piece of good info there’s 10 that are totally wrong or misleading. “Researching” on YouTube just reinforces what you already believe, it’s not about learning.
I just had this discussion with a very smart man and his line was the same as yours. And that is the OEM’s and circle track guys run hot coolant so they know what the **** they are doing and the rest of us are stupid.
I never said you were stupid. And I never even said that colder intake air temps don’t make more power. What I said is that application matters, and maximum horsepower isn’t the best tune for every application. The NASCAR example shows this clearly, they are tuning for other parameters. Is NASCAR stupid? Nope. Am I going to tune my street car to run 300° coolant temperatures because those engines make more power than mine? Or course not.
Then I asked him the exact same question I’m going to ask you. Let’s see how YOU do.
If Pro Stock chills their engines (they are nowhere near 100 degrees…I hear 70 and at the end of a run it’s 100ish) because they KNOW it makes more power that makes them stupid. Why wouldn’t they look at circle track **** and HEAT their engines??? Are they THAT a stupid?
The reason they don’t is because they make LESS HORSEPOWER the higher the coolant temperatures go up. Simple as that.
Pro-Stock runs for 10 seconds at a time and they get enough time in between runs to chill their temps again. That’s why they do that. If they ran for an hour at a time or had to make back to back runs they’d do something totally different.
Which has been my point the entire time. What Pro-Stock cars do has no bearing on how you’d tune a street car. Pro-Stock isn’t gonna work in a traffic jam on the freeway.
After all, there’s probably a good reason you don’t tune for 100° right? Even though it would make more power?
Like I said, about 160 is as low as I go so I can get a defrost. 180 is as high as I like to see. It kills power, makes the tune up window narrower and causes the same engine with the same compression ratio to use a fuel with higher octane to keep it out of detonation.
I will not test a pump gas engine higher that 160, maybe 165. No reason to.
If you’ve never tested a pump gas engine past 165°, then what
proof do you have that it works better than what I’m doing? I know
exactly what the theory says, better than you can imagine.
Will it make more horsepower on your dyno? Sure, it probably will. But how much? And how will that change the drivability? If you’ve never done it any other way as you just said, you don’t know either.
So jerk your engine out, drive up here and I’ll test your **** at 200 and we’ll see what it does. I won’t even charge you.
If that doesn’t work for you too ******* bad. You have no proof of what you can do. I have lots of engines out there running 160ish. You just can’t accept the fact that it doesn’t fit your pradigm.
See, even your challenge tells me where you’re coming from. I’d drive my car anywhere in the US, no qualms about putting 2,000+ miles on it because it would make it, I drive more than that every year. The fact that you’d load up an engine and haul it to go that far makes it really clear what you think your engines will and won’t do.
I’m sure my engine would make more power on a dyno tuned for 160°. And I’m equally sure that the handful of horsepower I lose on the dyno at redline isn’t worth running that tune on the street the way I use my car.
There are a lot of ways to tune am engine, max power is only one, and whether it’s best or not depends on how you’re using that engine, how that engine is built, etc, etc.
