Turn Signal Cancellation doesn't work with new switch
I know this has been addressed probably more than a few times but I'm wondering if my problem is the result of a poorly built aftermarket switch. So I understand how the tang on the heavy duty spring on the back side of the steering wheel can (inside the copper horn collector) is to be positioned at approximately 9:00 and that when you put your signal on, it deflects the trip tab without tripping it, however the tang is to catch the trip tab as you recenter the wheel after the turn, thus tripping the switch off.
I have taken extensive measurements of the steering shaft diameter, length, etc., etc., and determined that about .035" of the cancellation tang should be engaging the trip tab. (the outer portion of the trip tang measures to be .318" from the steering shaft as calculated and mathematically determined). I have taken a .318" stack of feeler gauge leafs and slid it around the steering shaft and its sharp square edge catches and trips the signal switch just fine.
The switch required a fair amount of force to cancel by hand using the lever and made quite a "snap". I figured I'd take a little bit of the bite out of it and shaved off just ever so much of the stationary "catch" that holds the signal on. Doing so requires now much less force to trip it and it sounds much softer and more modern. I thought that was the fix...but no! I'm thinking the plastic trip point on this switch is made slightly different than OEM and instead of tripping the switch, it is deflecting. I think I purchased it from classic industries and as you can see the trip portion is yellow. I should mention the switch appears to be a cheap version as it does not have a horn wheel but instead a brass plunger. Wondering if anyone has had this problem and what the fix was? I'm thinking of adding a bit of "meat" to the steel trip tang by adding some JB weld putty to make it a bit larger in diameter.
I know this has been addressed probably more than a few times but I'm wondering if my problem is the result of a poorly built aftermarket switch. So I understand how the tang on the heavy duty spring on the back side of the steering wheel can (inside the copper horn collector) is to be positioned at approximately 9:00 and that when you put your signal on, it deflects the trip tab without tripping it, however the tang is to catch the trip tab as you recenter the wheel after the turn, thus tripping the switch off.
I have taken extensive measurements of the steering shaft diameter, length, etc., etc., and determined that about .035" of the cancellation tang should be engaging the trip tab. (the outer portion of the trip tang measures to be .318" from the steering shaft as calculated and mathematically determined). I have taken a .318" stack of feeler gauge leafs and slid it around the steering shaft and its sharp square edge catches and trips the signal switch just fine.
The switch required a fair amount of force to cancel by hand using the lever and made quite a "snap". I figured I'd take a little bit of the bite out of it and shaved off just ever so much of the stationary "catch" that holds the signal on. Doing so requires now much less force to trip it and it sounds much softer and more modern. I thought that was the fix...but no! I'm thinking the plastic trip point on this switch is made slightly different than OEM and instead of tripping the switch, it is deflecting. I think I purchased it from classic industries and as you can see the trip portion is yellow. I should mention the switch appears to be a cheap version as it does not have a horn wheel but instead a brass plunger. Wondering if anyone has had this problem and what the fix was? I'm thinking of adding a bit of "meat" to the steel trip tang by adding some JB weld putty to make it a bit larger in diameter.