Cam bearing issue

i'd clean em up with emery or 1200 wet n dry.. used wet wd40 diesel kero or similar
clean them and the cam off in brake cleaner
check the oil holes all align
when spotlessly clean stick it in with wd40 and spin it
if it spins reasonably well.. all good.

blow dry, assembly lube to save it when you are cold cranking to start, job done ... if this method works on crank journals that you nick and main bearings that you ding by dropping stuff... (which it does) it will work here.

run a short break in again and never look at them until the next rebuild.....
if the block or bore was misaligned to any great extent you would not have been able to fit the cam
if the bearings were so undersised by the action of fitting you wouln't have been able to fit the cam
your cam fits.....Nice

if you had tried the bearings on the cam before fitting they would have been too big.

keep in mind if you didn't see metalic particles in the oil of a new engine after break in i'd be a bit suss.... the final "machining" of everything occurs during break in... the last polish of every surface is basically happening. break in oil is kinda crap as a general every day drving oil. it deliberatly and by design, doesn't have the lubicity of the stuff you run from the end of break in onwards, its good enough to keep the parts apart once running, but crap enough to allow rings to bed in properly and allow all the tiny bits that needs shaving off everything to shave off. most of the metal bits probably came from the thrust face of the main bearing that provides the crankshaft thrust...they usually have more FACE than the crank does and you always get a few bits n bobs off there, espeically on a manual if you start it....with you foot on the clutch ... naughty...:) .

Dave