Good Cam for 318
So everyone assumes this is for drag racing at WOT?
I don't think you can make that assumption, either.
This is why all these 318 cam threads have the OP going from stock to .600 lift with a 3K converter and 4.88 gears.
It's like people assume any "performance upgrade" is for the maximum top end increase vis-a-vie ET that the person can afford.
Kind of like people that reply to radio threads with "I don't care about a radio because I want to hear the engine".
I do understand the dyno pulls are basically at WOT.
Why did the tester provide the 2K RPM data on the stock engine?
Why NOT show the changes across the board?
Just seems like a little thing to do that doesn't require very much effort and could be useful.
I thought I explained this.
What does drag racing and WOT have to do with each other? Do circle track cars not use WOT? Road race cars?
There is more to dyno testing than just WOT, but to pull an engine dow to 2000 in most cases is just STUPID. It means NOTHING and it’s a waste of time, money and it just adds extra wear and tear on the dyno.
A water brake or even an inertia dyno is NOT for most driveablity issues. That’s not what it’s for. So why abuse a tool for something it’s not designed for?
It’s amazing the number of guys who think what happens at 2000 RPM is critical, or really even important. What matters down that low is mostly a tune up issue.
How well the engine transitions from the idle circuit to the transfer slots and then on to the mains is far more critical that torque. It’s mind boggling how guys get this wrong.
Torque does NOT move the car. Never has, never will. Until you get to peak torque and after (where RPM matters and you make power) the only way to increase the power is to increase the torque.
As I said earlier, it’s not torque at WOT that matters down there. It’s how much torque you make at part throttle. You can jam a bunch of stroke in it and make it a John Deere. Some guys get wood even thinking about that and that’s ok.
But you can have all the torque in the world at 35% throttle and if you don’t get the timing curve correct (ALL engines need a curve and locking out the distributor is bad policy, and the all in by 2000 or 2500 crowd is leaving massive power and driveability on the table because they lack an understanding of how the timing curve works), if you love a giant Main Air Bleed and you are pig rich down low and lean at RPM, if you love as many emulsion holes as big as you can get and your A/F curve looks like a giant saw tooth curve then all that stroke won’t do ****. It will cover up a tuners lack of skill better than an engine with less stroke and more RPM.
That’s all **** you learn on the dyno and you can correct for it IF you know what you are doing.
But whining because the dyno guys don’t drag everything down to cruise RPM and load the hell out of it at WOT doesn’t cut it.
Its not what the tool is for, and doing that is abusive to the tool and the engine.