Strut Rod Help Please

As you may be aware of, I am also 100% a streeter.
For me;
>Corners with my streeter, are mostly at 35mph or less.
>Braking is from 60 mph or less.
>Some 80/90% of my driving is hiway cruising to and from my rural home to nearby towns.
>The biggest tires I can fit on the front of my 68 Barracuda are 245/50-15s on custom 8" wheels. My regular choice wheels are 235/60-14s on 7.5" off-the-shelf ET-IIs.
>Street tires tend to skate, a lot, and so; I depend on horsepower for rear-wheel-steering, as a back-up.

As you may know;
as the control arm cycles up and down, within the confines of the bump-stops, the caster is ever changing, being pushed or pulled by the strutrods, from the "at-rest" position. AND, because the control arms are of different lengths; as the caster changes, so does the camber, which then drags the toe-in with it. One of the strut rods jobs is to minimize those changes, or at least make them happen in a controlled manner and a useful direction.
So it's fairly important to chose an "at-rest" position that achieves the best results.
In that regard;
>I find no fault with the factory strut rods; altho, I modded the bushings for just a lil extra caster, a nod to the hiway cruising.

Another job of the strutrods is to keep the wheels from rolling under chassis during braking, while the brakes are trying to tear the wheel off. As they do this, on the rubber bushings, the control arm is moving to the back, and caster is minimized or even goes negative, but as the front end drops from weight transfer, the control arms cycle up into the fenders, which also produces negative caster. All this motion also increases negative camber. The result of all this is increasing the ability of the chassis to remain stable in straight-line braking.
I like the rubber bushings for this.
I also found that the Poly bushings were too harsh, when hitting things.
Because I am a streeter, I hit things like speed bumps, expansion joints, manhole covers, potholes, and occasionally, curbs. With the Polys it sometimes felt like the front end was gonna tear right off. The Rubber, was, IMO, a good factory choice and I eventually went back to it.
So then, after the initial set-up, and with the rubber back in there, flexibility returned, and so, adjustability and freedom of movement became moot.
To help keep the movement of the control arms in the sweetspot, I installed 1.03 bars and HD shocks.
To help the front suspension remain stable while braking in corners, I increased the amount of work that the rear brakes could do, by going from 245s to 295s and removing all rear brake hydraulic proportioning, then tuned the back with shoe and wheel-cylinder size...... to the point that, braking now, is like I imagine throwing out a chute would feel like, except that, I get it every time I step on the pedal. This really helps in mid-corner when coming in too hot for the surface-condition....... which with me, is a regular thing ....... lol. If I lose steering, cannot turn with power-on, then I know, that I can almost always brake my way back on course .......
Bottom line, for me was, I saved a lotta cash by not buying the adjustables, which I immediately spent elsewhere.