340 General Rebuild Info- Cam Recommendations

fastmerc said
HSorman,
All good stuff!!!! Basic target numbers are good to know!

Since I am "olds cool" by being, I'll fire up my stand alone tach and my timing gun and see what I've got.... Plot out a crude curve up to 3K and see where we're at! Adjust as neeeded!

Any advice on creating better spark with the original OEM units? I know buddies were always replacing the box on the firewall with the big transistor case on it..... not sure if that is ignition or voltage regulator.....

But words of wisdom for triggering the coil other than points, prefer to use hot rod OEM if it's an option???

(I am a large DuraSpark II fan for my "other" motors..... 10 degrees of retard at cranking feature (Blue strain relief boxes) lets you run 24 degrees of static initital advance, no vacuum, and fixed 10-12 at the distributor weights for a total of 34-36 which is what the SBF's love! Lets you run LOTS of static CR and piss for gas.....until things get too hot....that's where the alloy heads reign! ) I'm sure that the CARB boyz would be outraged.....! These things also work at "bad battery" voltages where MSD and Mallory start puking and non-performing at 9V. :)

Thanks!
Steve

My approach is somewhat different.
Assuming its the factory distributor, weld up the inside of the slots, file and your mostly done.
If the tag is gone you'll have to check with the timing light, tape, and the tach. But best to do that regardless.
With the first portion of the advance shortened, you may want to reduce the initial tension a bit so the advance still begins just above idle rpm.
The factory settings were usually a bit conservative to insure cover worst case scenarios but the general shape of the curve was well tested. Service techs were expected to make small adjustments to initial timing depending on local situation including fuels available, as well as engine idiocincrities and customer.