The one thing you have not done is check accuracy. You may have already done so, but you also MUST make certain of electrical integrity.
Keep in mind ALWAYS that "new" parts do NOT mean "properly working" parts.
You've already done some good stuff here, now check the accuracy. The factory had gauge check boxes, that were simply a switch and 3 resistors. The photo is not a factory box, but an aftermarket dupe:
View attachment 1716107086
So now, temporarily disconnect your fuel sender and lay it where it will be stable. Adjust the sender with an ohmeter for 74 ohms. Connect the sender to the gauge, set up battery and ground input (don't forget to ground both the sender AND the cluster!!) and the gauge should read as described on the box. Do the same at 23 ohms (1/2 full) and with 10 ohms (full mark to +3/32 of it)
Also do a search on here. There are many threads detailing that mondern tank replacment senders are simply not accurate. They are not made correctly
There exists a couple of brands of gauge corrector systems, one of which is known as "meter match." This is a little box, about ?? 70 bucks ?? or so, that goes in the circuit and can be programmed to correct readings with an otherwise working system.
This is the cheaper corrector that has shown up, I know nothing of their reliability
ALSO READ THIS THREAD!!
[URL]https://www.forabodiesonly.com...rrector-cheaper-than-metermatch-33-00.517859/[/URL]
AND ANOTHER which talks about "meter match"
[URL]https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fuel-gauge-sending-units-compared.454044/[/URL]