Help me find the umph in my 360

Replace the valve springs on one cylinder with light "checking" springs. You can get these at most any hardware store. Just hold the valves closed but not enough to collapse the lifters. Then use a dial indicator on the retainer and hand turn the engine to/through 20° BTDC to TDC and then on the other valve from TDC to 20° ATDC. This will tell what valve clearance you have now with you lift. The way to measure is every 5°, open the valve by operating the rocker arm until the retainer touches the stem seal or the valve touches the piston. This will inform how much valve to piston clearance you have and at what ° closest approach is. Depending on your pistons, 0.508" lift these days is not excessive. Older engines only used 0.350" to 0.400" as the spring technology was not as developed. Now you can run 0.600" on the street reliably, provided you double check all clearances and use recommended springs.
How old are You??? No, We didn't have conical/behives until the OE's started using them in the '80's & '90's, but We ran mid-.500"'s to .600" with duals w & w/o dampers just fine on the street. What are You talking about?? 340's shifting in the mid-7K's, ****, the Olds 455 I built is running 6,500 with a .570" lift Comp Xtreme Energy Hyd. cam. It's been running since '07 that way.
You're talking to a Member that might have 7.5:1 squeeze & is rightly looking to change cams/cam timing, & You've got the advice of basically starting from scratch & building an entirely new & $$$$ mill ?!?!?!
I appreciate posting informative stuff, & respect the guidance that folks like DV has to offer, but this isn't the moment for that stuff.
The OP just wants to get the best grunt from THIS mill, I'm sure when He's got the trans etc. He wants in & sorted, He might be ready to build a Trickflow headed stroker with all the "right" things done to it........