Distributor changes

My best advice is;
1) to get a dash-mounted, adjustable, timing knob, and start with roll-ons to find the spark knock limits of your fuel at various rpms, and then build your advance curve just once..
2) My second best advice is install closed chamber heads, crank up the Squish with flat-tops, and reach for a Dynamic Compression Ratio of over 8.2:1 with iron heads, and minimum .8 more with alloys. You will not be sorry.
3) My third best is to not install any cam with more than a 110 LSA. a 107/108 would likely be best. This, depending on the overlap, may somewhat limit how slow you can idle down the hiway and still get decent fuel-economy. But it will help to pump up your cylinder pressure, and that means .... torque
4) As for the advance cans, the screw inside them just delays the onset of advance. But every can in my collection has stops on the arms, that you can file down to transform it from whatever it is, to whatever you want it to be, up to a max of 22>24 degrees.
5) On the street, with street gears and tires,
torque is king; so forget about chasing Power, which is nothing but bragging rights. Build for torque and the power will come right along with it.
6) To work within the limitations of your Transfer slot sync you will most likely need a two-stage timing curve.

Opinions;
>if you install open chamber heads with no squish provision, you will be sorry. see note-1
> If limit your Static Compression ratio to 9/1 as some do, you will be sorry. see note 2
>If you install a big cam, into your lo-compression open-chamber heads, you will be very sorry; see note-3

note-1
such a chamber will be detonation prone at WOT, and often even at Part-Throttle, with almost any compression ratio, and any pump-gas; don't do it!
note-2
static compression ratios of 9/1 or less, with street cams, will lead to low Dynamic ratios, and low cylinder pressure, and a sucked out bottom end that needs a higher than stock stall, and higher than necessary rear gear ratios.
note-3
If you do this, your low-rpm torque will take a big hit. If you have to install a 3000 TC into a street 360, or anything higher than 3.55s, in an A-body, at 1000ft elevation or less, you did something wrong, and I can almost guarantee you that your cylinder pressure is weeeeeeeeak.
note-4
A streeter is a two gear car at best. and
your engine saddled with 3.23s and 27' tires in Second gear, it will
hit 65=3800 at zero-slip, say 4100 on the tach.
So then, that engine better have some grunt when it gets there; and it absolutely does not care how much power there is at 5500.
If it spins the tires all the way, well, that is different situation, lol.

Happy HotRodding