There's a better way which will check the module. Simply pull apart the distributor 2 terminal connector, and take the connector end in the engine bay, not the distributor end. With the key in "run" and a test spark gap rigged to the coil tower, repeatedly tap the bare terminal of that connector to ground. Each time, you should get a nice hot "snap" spark.
OP Your voltage test does indicate one good thing. With the key in run, and getting around 6V this shows you are getting power, that the power is going through the ballast, and that the coil is grounded through the module and drawing current.
Try working the distributor connector in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals. Those connectors have almost zero current through them, and are subject to corrosion.
Inspect the interior of the distributor reluctor/ pickup area for rust, damage/ debri. Wiggle the shaft to check for side play.
Be sure to test for spark AT THE coil tower with a solid wire and test gap. If you get none by using the KEY to turn to "start" then try jumpering 12V direct to the coil + and try the test again
If the "tap tap" test of the pickup connector gives you spark, concentrate on a bad connection in that connector, a bad pickup or damage or misadjustment of the reluctor gap, which should be .008 using a brass feeler (nonmagnetic)